Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Aero 8, 2012< Plus 8, SuperSports, Coupe & Aeromax S1 hard to start & cutting out

I took my S1 out on Sunday, first time in a few weeks.

The car had multiple clicks on the starter button (solenoid?) without turning over, this has happened before but seems to be getting worse. I put it in 6th gear, pushed it a few inches forward & then it started instantly, before cutting out 50 yards later, resuming clicking noises, rolling it forward again in 6th, & then she started but was running rough, which subsequently cleared after a few hundred yards. She also cut out about 5 miles later when selecting reverse but instantly started again & was okay for another 7 miles until I returned home.

The battery, which is always on trickle charge, and sounds lively when she is turning over (had to crank her extensively a few weeks ago after going 6 weeks without use), as does the starter.

Reading previous threads, the excessive clicking is generally thought to be battery or starter, but I am wondering with the rough running episode & the cutting out when selecting reverse, whether the camshaft or crankshaft sensors are the culprit. Any thoughts & advice would be most appreciated

Ian

It could also be a tired starter relay

The cutout would be nothing to do with the starting circuit. Maybe you have more than one fault?

I would get it on a diagnostics reader via the OBD connector as well as checking your battery leads and major connection points on the chassis etc

Thanks for the input so far. Obviously a good point about leads & earthing, and easy to check out. I also have a BMW OBD reader, from when I used to own BMWs. I know Morgan modified the software, but perhaps if I start off on the basis it is say, a BMW 645i, I could then see what it shows, but I'll be surprised if it gives me anything reliable, given it's modified software

Hi Ian,
Issues with starting are well documented on here, so I won't go through that again. Your cutting out, I don't think has any bearing with your starter issues. I had the same problem as you a few years ago, and eventually traced it back to a very small leaf trapped on the gauze on the mass airflow sensor. Obviously flying about within the cylindrical part of the sensor and giving the wrong information to the sensor on rappid acceleration and tickover (leaf settling down within the sensor). After buying a new maf it worked perfectly, so I bought the special maf cleaner. Gave it a good clean and replaced the old one. I've now got a spare in the garage incase of emergancies. It's an easy fix, just take the front cowl off. It's much easier as I don't have universal joints for fingers. Hope you get it sorted.
Aerotaff

Ian
I've had this from time to time on my Aero - particularly when it's been tucked up in the garage for a while.

There are a lot of theories why the 'click' happens, as you mention above - plus possibly, a humid/damp garage (some folk use a Carcoon to good effect),a poor earth connection,corrosion on the starter, etc.etc.....?

(I have a long list collated from various TM'ers and others if anyone is interested !!)

I also found that several rapid on/off presses on the starter button sometimes persuades the engine to fire......

I have also collected a few random opinions/explanations from various people, specifically on the Odyssey batteries and Ctek chargers;see below -


The Odyssey isn’t a gel battery.

It can not be connected on a smart charger over a long period of time on the normal settings.Because of its cranking amps the charger supplies the battery small amps over a long period of time and the Odyssey battery doesn't like this, gets too hot and warps the plates,then expands and cracks and leaks,

The way around this is if you connect your battery (only Odyssey) up to a smart charger is to put the charger on the */Winter setting (3 settings, m/c + car + *). This increases amps and volts and charges quicker and shuts down for longer periods of time, then the battery isn't as hot..
Ctek are aware its only the Odyssey batteries that are affected and have had a lot of reports of battery failure.... Gel types and normal batteries seem to be ok.

As far as I can see from the Ctek manual it pulses when in normal battery maintenance mode where as the Optima charger offers the battery charge in alternate 30 minute periods. The Optima 4, 5 and 6 are recommended for AGM batteries such as Odyssey.

NB on the ctek manual it does recommend using the * cold winter setting for AGM batteries such as Odyssey and Optimate batteries.

The may explain why the Odyssey has a problem with the Ctek on normal battery mode and not with an Optimate charger


Now,I can't prove the above comments definatively but I had an Odyssey battery fitted and used a Ctek trickle charger, more or less,24/7. I was convinced it couldn't be the battery at fault as it was only just over 2 years old, plus the above trickle charging.

Anyhow,I noticed that I could usually start the car straight away if I used a jump starter - so I finally bit the bullet and got a new Odyssey battery.

Bingo! Car starts on the button

I now have the car on the Ctek on a timer for a couple of hours a day about three/four times per week and on the Winter setting.I also use the battery cut off switch (I re-wired the radio so I don't have to keep re-setting the memory).

My theory is that if you leave them on trickle charge for 24/7 it will fry the battery.The AGM batteries seem to like a short, sharp,high amp charge better than the long ,slow trickle charge.....

It goes against what you do for a 'normal' lead acid battery and I know some will disagree.

I reckon that in the past,I must have 'fried' 2 Odyssey motorbike batteries and 2 on the Aero (albeit the first one was on its last legs I think!) by leaving them on permanent trickle charge; lesson (finally) learnt!

It may not explain the subsequent stuttering on your Aero Ian, but I reckon the Aero is very temperamental when the battery is even slightly below par.I have toyed with getting one of the new Lithium racing batteries but they are mega expensive,need a specific charger and it is difficult to know how that would cope with every day driving - plus they can explode rather impressively

I think Morgan probably chose the best battery they could, given the space they had available under the bonnet.It works fine when the battery is new but it doesn't take much for it to lose its edge and start causing all sorts of issues.....

James

spot on james

Em,had to smile at this as it reminded me of the 'wrong type of leaf' explanation from the railways a while back

It is a good point however and well worth checking out

I have also heard of people fitting e.g. K&N air filters and the oil used to lubricate them fouling the MAF sensor and causing all sorts of issues.....

Can you give some more detail on the MAF cleaner you used please - it might be worth getting some for the spares box

James

ma air sensor cleaner