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DaveW Offline OP
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I kicked off my winter schedule today by changing the brake fluid in my Plus 4.
I've recorded this job before on TM with images, so this time it's just a quick resume, and is a job that most amateur mechanics can do.

I started with the clutch fluid. The Mx5 gearbox has an external slave cylinder, which is good, and an 8mm ring spanner fits the nipple, after removing the plastic cover, if one is fitted.

I use my favourite orange bleed tube which is soft rubber like an old lab gas pipe. The end is blocked and there's a slit at the end to allow the fluid out and prevent air getting in. I stick the end into a mineral water bottle to collect the old fluid.

So after removing the master cylinder cap....on the 2016 cars it's a joint reservoir for brakes and clutch.

I put twenty strokes through the system. The old fluid came out clean. Literally a few minutes work, so far.

Next I jacked up the rear, and removed the wheels. The rear nipples are also 8mm. Earlier cars may be smaller, my Roadster certainly is.
I put forty strokes through the rear nearside. The fluid came out very discoloured. I put twenty strokes through the offside rear, as the front to back brake pipe is purged when doing the nearside.

I then removed the brake drums, and cleaned the insides (taking precautions not to inhale the dust). The four securing bolts are 11mm. One drum slid off easily, the other needed a couple of taps from behind. All was well inside.

Throughout I topped up the reservoir every ten strokes.

At the front, the Caparo calipers have two nipples each, and these are 11mm. I put twenty strokes through each nipple. All this took less than one full bottle of brake fluid, and I used standard Dot4.

Before replacing the wheels, I checked the tyres for damage, and cleaned the spokes, the insides of the rims and sidewalls. I polished the rims and applied tyre dressing to the insides.

With the radio on and lashings of tea, this took four hours. So a relaxing and productive morning!!!

I always change brake fluid every two years.


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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You might find life easier with a Gunson Easybleed pressure bleeder. Some modern systems with servos can only be bled with a pressure bleeder. Also it contains half a good half litre of fluid so no danger of the master cylinder emptying.

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Scruffy Oik
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Originally Posted By griffo
You might find life easier with a Gunson Easybleed pressure bleeder. Some modern systems with servos can only be bled with a pressure bleeder. Also it contains half a good half litre of fluid so no danger of the master cylinder emptying.


I'd agree. I use a Sealey pressure bleeder which has an integral pump, and it makes the whole job amazingly easy and fuss free.



Tim H.
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DaveW Offline OP
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I had an Eezibleed but I just couldn't get on with it.


DaveW
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I also use the Sealey bleeding system but I believe that some brave souls actually enjoy involving their better halves in this bleeding process.


Bob

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Scruffy Oik
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Originally Posted By DaveW
I had an Eezibleed but I just couldn't get on with it.


I used to have an Eazibleed and found the trick was to use quite a low pressure. The reason I prefer the Sealey is that it's much easier to control.


Tim H.
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Originally Posted By Hamwich
Originally Posted By griffo
You might find life easier with a Gunson Easybleed pressure bleeder. Some modern systems with servos can only be bled with a pressure bleeder. Also it contains half a good half litre of fluid so no danger of the master cylinder emptying.


I'd agree. I use a Sealey pressure bleeder which has an integral pump, and it makes the whole job amazingly easy and fuss free.



Funny old thing I have one of those.

You need to still cycle the pedal to ensure it runs through the valve at the pedal end.

To save faffing I put my pela oil extractor on the nipple end the vacuum ensures no back travel.


Mark - No Longer driving
Archie the Old English Sheep Mog...........
2010 Roadster 3.0 V6 (S3) wink

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