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Wales
by Joske Vermeule, September 1
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Forums39
Topics49,901
Posts838,042
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Jun 14th, 2026
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,415
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,415 |
Don't You mean "Slightly Down" to compensate for Caster which is about 2 degrees
I mean lower in the middle where they bolt to the rack, and higher at the outboard ends 2 degrees is too much CAMBER for a road car (assuming its negative) it will hunt every little wiggle and camber change in the road Try about 0.5 degrees (negative) it will make a world of difference to the steering Simon @ SiFab.co.uk
Simon @ Sifab.co.uk
Sifabtemporary@gmail.com
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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,799 Likes: 4
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,799 Likes: 4 |
2 degrees is an awful lot of camber on a road car. I'm guessing that's the king pin inclination.
I'll check some angles more accurately when I get my new inclinometer.
Bob
2009 Black Roadster
1999 4/4 2 litre Zetec
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,943
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,943 |
Don't You mean "Slightly Down" to compensate for Caster which is about 2 degrees
I mean lower in the middle where they bolt to the rack, and higher at the outboard ends 2 degrees is too much CAMBER for a road car (assuming its negative) it will hunt every little wiggle and camber change in the road Try about 0.5 degrees (negative) it will make a world of difference to the steering Simon @ SiFab.co.uk Hmmm. I really do not know what the camber is in My +8 Bitsa. It is a 1998 chassis and crosshead. I guess I must go to an Alignment Shop and find out because something is wrong for sure.
Button
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 8,698 Likes: 498
Just barreling along Needs to Get Out More!
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Just barreling along Needs to Get Out More!
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 8,698 Likes: 498 |
Thanks Jon........you know what you must do next now!!!!!!! Now chance, I've got a complex leather job waiting on the bench first
Jon M
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Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 310 Likes: 9
Learner Plates Off!
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Learner Plates Off!
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 310 Likes: 9 |
Hi DaveW, a couple of questions regarding removing/replacing the front hubs on your job. If you are taking off the front hubs to make another job easier (such as replacing the bushes), rather than for replacing the bearings, do you have to replace the rear grease seal? I have a book on Car Care published in 1994 [same year as my +8, so it's cutting edge!] which I find generally very useful. In addition to replacing the rear seal it also advises packing the hub cavity as well as the bearings with grease on reassembling. Do you do this when you have the hubs off, or do you just put back anything which happens to drop out and bolt the wheels back on? Lastly, on your photos of installing Mulfab Steering Bearings I notice the carpet is spotless. Do you use Shake & Vac? Regards, I never replace the rear grease seal unless I'm changing the wheel bearings, and to be honest I haven't changed a front wheel bearing since...well, probably 2000. I do always add grease to the cavity, and around the outer bearing. My carpet isn't quite as spotless as it looks. I cover it when I'm jobbing, and vac it regularly. I do keep thinking about hiring a carpet cleaner to do the whole thing!!!! Thanks for that Dave, it sounds a bit more straightforward.
1994 +8, BMW Calypso Red.
2002 4/4, 4 seater, BMW Calypso Red.
How do you open the boot?
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2,095 Likes: 75
Talk Morgan Expert
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Talk Morgan Expert
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2,095 Likes: 75 |
Dave
No mention of how to replace the hub nut. Do you have to pre-load and then back off to finger tight or is there a torque setting?
Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon
1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
1958 Triton 650
1992 Triumph Trophy 900
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 22,371 Likes: 354
Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
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OP
Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 22,371 Likes: 354 |
The way I've always done this is to nip it up gently then back it off to the first split pin position. (Note...for taper bearings!!).
It's something you get a feel for. The balance between tight and no play in the wheel. I put the wheel back on without the brake caliper and spin it to check for both.
It's important to get both bearings seated properly, and to get the slotted washer properly located on the stub.
When set, the nut is just beyond finger tight, although I have had them looser than this in the past on other cars.
If the choice is between tight or slight play, I would live with slight play at the wheel. It all depends on the available split pin positions.
DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2,095 Likes: 75
Talk Morgan Expert
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Talk Morgan Expert
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2,095 Likes: 75 |
The way I've always done this is to nip it up gently then back it off to the first split pin position. (Note...for taper bearings!!).
It's something you get a feel for. The balance between tight and no play in the wheel. I put the wheel back on without the brake caliper and spin it to check for both.
It's important to get both bearings seated properly, and to get the slotted washer properly located on the stub.
When set, the nut is just beyond finger tight, although I have had them looser than this in the past on other cars.
If the choice is between tight or slight play, I would live with slight play at the wheel. It all depends on the available split pin positions.
Thanks Dave. That all makes a lot of sense
Last edited by Deejay; 23/11/18 10:57 AM.
Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon
1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
1958 Triton 650
1992 Triumph Trophy 900
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 12,265 Likes: 321
Scruffy Oik Member of the Inner Circle
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Scruffy Oik Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 12,265 Likes: 321 |
The way I've always done this is to nip it up gently then back it off to the first split pin position. (Note...for taper bearings!!).
It's something you get a feel for. The balance between tight and no play in the wheel. I put the wheel back on without the brake caliper and spin it to check for both.
It's important to get both bearings seated properly, and to get the slotted washer properly located on the stub.
When set, the nut is just beyond finger tight, although I have had them looser than this in the past on other cars.
If the choice is between tight or slight play, I would live with slight play at the wheel. It all depends on the available split pin positions.
That's the way I do it too. One tip I got from Kevin Vernon is to use long nose pliers like these to do up the castellated nut, that way you don't put too much torque on to it. Once it's just snug, you then back off until you get the first line up between hole and castellation. As Dave says, better a smidgeon too slack than too tight. 
Tim H.
1986 4/4 VVTi Sport, 2002 LR Defender, 2022 Mini Cooper SE
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