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Joined: Oct 2016
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L - Learner Plates On
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Us 3 Wheelers have a finely honed sense of balance


PaulR

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Im working 70+ hours a week. I have to spend the money on something


kirkusblog.com
2016 M3W John A Prestwich Special
1952 Ford 8N
1968 Honda CL175,and 2018 Ural Retro




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Originally Posted By Draggin
Im working 70+ hours a week. I have to spend the money on something


You’re paying my social security. Thanks. Been retired 11 years now. I think my M3W is perfect as delivered by Morgan. So, I just spent $2,500 on my BMW R9T.


The Original Ken
11,000 miles.

2014 BMW R9T
2005 Saabaru
2005 Saabaru
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Im going to change the oil on the R69s this year...


kirkusblog.com
2016 M3W John A Prestwich Special
1952 Ford 8N
1968 Honda CL175,and 2018 Ural Retro




Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1,490
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Originally Posted By Draggin
Im going to change the oil on the R69s this year...


There goes another $75!😱


The Original Ken
11,000 miles.

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2005 Saabaru
2005 Saabaru
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Guys, my SPAX shocks came without any instructions. The link provided in this thread is dead.

Would you please share the instructions in case you have it? Just want to make sure I adjust the preload correctly.


2016 M3W, Army Green Matte/Tan Leather, 17k miles
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My front Spax are set up with 95mm between the centre of the bolt hole and the upper surface of the spring seat. This gives me a ride height around 5mm lower than stock. Obviously, when fitted they can be tweaked if necessary so that you end up with an even ride height side to side. Another approach is to adjust so that the steering arms are horizontal.

Regarding firmness: Start off with 10 clicks from softest and go from there.

Can't help you with the rears because I don't have them fitted!


Andy
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Try going to Spax Downloads Page and then to the Krypton Dampers owners manual link. That should get the instructions, such as they are.
The black art bit for road use usually consists of setting the preload to give what looks like the right ride height then driving it and adjusting the damping till it feels about right. What feels right on the road is right: it's different for competition use and involves stopwatches! Also, for road use there is a fairly wide window of damper settings that work well or to put it another way, a one click change might make a particular bumpy corner slightly more controlled and comfortable but the next corner might not be quite as good as it was before! Once you have it working well then consider adjusting the preload, again for road use the damping might not need changed for a small preload change but it is worth going up and down a couple of clicks to see what happens to the feel on the road.
Don't be daunted by how vague it all sounds, the chances are that the damping is set at a fairly decent setting out of the box but do check what the setting is - you need to know where you are starting from.
Have fun and remember that a lot of the benefit of replacement shocks is that the uncontrolled free play before the damping kicks in is much reduced compared to the originals, they also tend to have much better bumpstops so the end of travel movement is better controlled and they are much less inclined to overheat too.

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Timely thread. Just installed my front Ohlins and am waiting excessive motivation to tackle the rears. Not to mention the arrival of Spring for these 'seat of the pants' black art tweaks.


'17 M3W:
'08 Ural Gear-Up
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Thanks, guys! Installed all 4 shocks. Changed the rear tire as well, since it all was taken apart. Had to grind down 3 bushings, as they were wider than the frame mount. Waiting for a dry day to test it out!

What ride height are tou running? (Unloaded)


2016 M3W, Army Green Matte/Tan Leather, 17k miles
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