Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Morgan Centrelock Trad wheels

Not sure if I have asked this before but what is the factory recommended tightening torque for these wheels fitted around 2000 as an option on the plus 8 ?

Sorry no idea but tight!
Presumably they will have a grub screw to line up with the indentation in the hub a la series 1 Aero?
No doubt someone more knowledgeable that me will be along shortly with a definitive answer.

No grubby screw unlike club sport Porsches and series one Aeros that's why I would like to know , a couple of the English dealers said they use an 8' bar but I would rather utilise a torque wrench .

Are you sure they said 8' that would be a huge force ?

I use the pressed steel MG style tool on my two eared spinners. It's just over 26" long and pleased to say with gloves I was comfortably able to undo the factory tightened wheels after a couple of nudges. I would imagine a three foot breaker bar the maximum to avoid damage.

Given the design nature of removal/fitting with a hammer and the self tightening effect, my view is the exact torque is not critical.

If there are wheels with a single centernut, there is a good information on the wheel manufacturer MWS.

Centernuts are allways selffixing. Proved also by Keith at BHM yesterday.

René

http://www.mwsint.com/site/cms/contentCategoryView.asp?category=214

If you mean the centre lock alloy wheels I know that it is important that these are tightened to the correct torque setting although I don't know what this is. The reason for my reply though is that in reading your post and the ones following yours I have a couple of observations from my own experience of these wheels which, incidentally, I think are the best looking wheels for the +8 but they have their drawbacks unlike the steel wire wheels.
It would seem that once the nuts are tightened to the correct torque they are almost impossible to get off even with a very extended lever. I think that this is the reference to the 8 foot long bar by the way. I certainly couldn't get one off with a similar length bar coupled to the special socket lever. A hydraulic gun as used at race meetings was the only solution to my predicament. The Plus 8 wheels didn't have the grub screw security found on the aeros, hence the importance of knowing the torque setting.
I have put my wire wheels back on as I know that the spinners behave differently to the alloy nuts and I wanted the reassurance that I could change a wheel if I was touring miles away from a garage with special apparatus and the right sized socket for the nut which, incidentally, is of a different external dimension to the steel nut used on the wires.
I know that this hasn't answered your question but if you are indeed referring to the centre lock alloys I think that the factory or your dealer may be best placed to answer this as I know that they are aware of the very specific issues regarding these wheels.
I would certainly be interested to know whether other owners with such wheels could offer their advice or recommendations based on their own experience.

A 2' bar welded onto the MMC supplied socket delivers the right torque for tightening up, I have a 6' sleeve to fit over the bar for un tightening them and this has worked for the 5 years ownership.
When I did know the correct torque I worked out it required a 2' bar but I can't remember the figure now.



This is my ex 4/4 Sport bar and socket from Millers, which is spot on for loosening the nut when slid over the 2' bar.

Thanks for the replies but just to clarify I am referring to Centrelock alloys not wire wheels a very different thing, Richard has the type of socket I have, since I can't carry a race spec rattle gun around with me am looking to utilise a torque multiplier and would like to be accurate . They can't be undone with my 100kg on a 5' bar at present, which is what I was informed to expect by some knowledgeable uk dealers .

Ring Mark Baldwin at the Factory service dept. I’m sure he’ll know the ‘official’ torque setting.