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oops!
At the moment rear jacking is on both sides with 2 trolleykacks a bit at a time each sidethen lower onto ramps. Not used axlestands on rear yet.


Plus Four MY23 Furka Rouge
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Post Photobucket reboot from March 2011

To lift the rear across the rearmost crossmember I've used what is basically a length of strong floor boaring with a smaller piece of wood glued on top. This has worked well enough but I wanted to stiffen it up. So I had a look at Wickes aluminium channels and selected two lengths of L section. I've bolted these channels along each side to provide extra stiffness. On the top I've added a rubber anti-slip strip, and a small steady block to keep the wood level. To locate it I've screwed two hood male lift the dots into a couple of spare holes in the chassis, and added two extra blocks of wood which locate over these metal nipples so that accurate location is now very easy.
These pictures show the locating nipples, nearside & offside.





Underside showing L sections bolted on, and rubber pad for the jack.



Topside.





This has made a big improvement, and made me think about the front.............

More to follow >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


DaveW
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Post Photobucket reboot from March 2011

You may remember my first version of this - for the front lift, knocked up from my offcuts box. Not pretty but it worked well enough. The two lower strips of wood stop the jack slipping, and the cross tube is held on the moulding by the block of wood behind it and sits on the neoprene cushion, so no damage.





When I fitted the undertray, access to the cross tube became very tight. I left just enough room for my second version, but it can be fiddly. This is a similar idea but has a metal channel with cushion, and a long throughbolt so that the jack can't slip.





I wanted something like my rear attachment, so that it would both spread the load, and be safe.

The starting point was two aluminium offcuts, which I shaped to fit around the cross tube at the outer ends near the wheels. The plan was then to mount these on blocks, and insert other blocks to spread the load where possible, but the location would be at each end in the U shaped aluminium.
This is how it started to take shape.





This shows the load bearing blocks, and the angled piece which supports the towing eye. The aluminium L sections are also in place.







One tiny detail remains. This old trolley jack needs 120mm clearance and the wooden frame does not provide that, it's about 100mm. So my next job is to source a nice shiny new trolley jack, and I know just where to look.............


DaveW
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My version, but I do I prefer your chequered carpet tiles Dave
















Craig Jezz


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DaveW Offline OP
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I prefer your joinery skills Craig.......


DaveW
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Excellent both Dave and Craig

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2008 XXVII Platform, Bugatti Blue Roadster 4 Seater
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