Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Changing Brake/Clutch Fluid

It seems we should all be changing our brake/clutch fluid every 2-3yrs.Its a task I would like to try to do,but have little experience.I wonder if some able person could post a step by step description of the procedure? OH...for a M3W Haynes Manuel !!

I suction pump is helpful as well as speed bleeders. Brake fluid WILL DESTROY paint. What you you do not want is the reservoir to dry as you will now have air the system which is a PITA to bleed out.

As a starter, watch this VIDEO.
On the 3 Wheeler there is a bleed nipple on each front caliper and also one on the rear drum brake.
Bleeding the clutch is a similar process. You will find the bleed nipple on a small black manifold under the oil tank.

you will need a helper. you to loosen and tighten the nipple and the helper to apply pressure on the pedal as you loosen, and then you need to tighten before the pressure is taken off.

Get an Easybleed from Halfords it makes it an easy job.

I tend to change my brake fluid every year whilst doing the other fluids.

Several ways exist to do this.
Original tried and tested requires two of you - one to pedal the foot brake and push through the fluid to each wheel in turn as the other opens and closes the bleed nipple with each foot press till clean fluid emerges into the waste bottle/cup/bowl, or whatever you choose to collect it in.
Tried a Gunsen Eezibleed system but that was not good. It relies on tyre pressure to force air through from the foot brake reservoir. The cap did not fit properly and I ended up with brake fluid spilling everywhere. Correctly used with much-reduced tyre pressure it might work but I lost patience with the ill-fitting cap provided.
I now use a Sealey system (Model No: V5820.v4) and it works well. The pressure cap fits well onto the reservoir and there is a gauge to tell you the right pressure to use and full clear instructions. A large sturdy bottle incorporates a pump to pressurise the fluid through the system and a relief valve to de-pressurise before releasing the cap onto the reservoir so reducing the likelihood of spillage. The bottle/reservoir is large enough to contain all the fluid required to do all four wheels eliminating the need to keep topping up.
There are other systems that rely on sucking the fluid out via a vacuum pump but I have not tried one of those.
Top tip = Ensure reservoir is re-filled frequently during the proceedings, to avoid air being sucked or forced through the brake lines. Otherwise, it means starting all over again to get rid of every little bubble.
Not for human consumption - Wash hands afterwards!

I have easy bleed nipples fitted in place of the standard nipples and use the same vacuum reservoir that I use for getting the oil out of the tank connected to each nipple in turn, crack the nipple open and pump the brake pedal a few times with a broom handle. Nip up the nipple and move on to the next one.
Fast and easy.

That 3 wheelers could either be very old or very new machines, I thought it perhaps wise to consider the differences in brake fluid makeup to avoid creating a possible issue...?


https://ebcbrakes.com/product/brake-fluids/

If you are referring to very old three wheelers as those manufactured in the 1920's/40's then they had cable operated brakes as original, so no need to worry about changing brake fluid. Having said that some have been converted to hydraulic though

Luddite you are correct dont mix up fluid specs . The Morgan spec is DOT4. You can use DOT5.1 as both are glycol based. Never mix DOT5 with other fluids its silicone based.