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Joined: Dec 2018
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Originally Posted by Gambalunga
...

I don't think I will ever forget the look on the face of that postman!


I am sure he will also not forget the 'recorded special delivery' in his pants either! laugh2


Dark Red 4/4 80th Anniversary
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Thanks all for (mostly) sympathy and some excellent advice. It was actually surprisingly undramatic - I was slowing down to adjust to the flow of rush-hour traffic on the on-ramp rather than having to try and come to a sudden stop from a decent speed like Peter!

Brake fluid was above the minimum mark a week ago: even if my maintenance schedule clearly needs updating, I do at least apply grease and check all fluids regularly. And I'm pretty sure I'd have noticed a significant softening of the pedal on my way in to work in the morning, but all seemed fine.

I'll start at the back and work forward. From everything I've read on here and elsewhere over the years, I suspect rear cylinders are probably the likeliest culprit, but I'll do a complete inch-by-inch inspection of all the lines as well. I've looked back through all the service invoices that my dad meticulously kept before I took over the car (a tradition I'm carrying on to prepare the way for the next generation...), and it seems one of the rear cylinders was replaced in the early 2000s but no other major work has been done to the braking system beyond replacing wearing surfaces. So it's clearly time for a thorough overhaul at 120,000-odd miles!

No Morganing for me for a few weeks frown


Doug
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If you are doing a serious brake overhaul you might like to contact Peter Ballard (PJB on Talk Morgan) but he has not logged on for more than 6 months. He can be contacted at www​.suspensionsupplies.co.uk/

He told me some time back that there could be a problem with the way in which the master cylinder was fitted that reverses the front circuit (intended for disk calipers) and the rear circuit (intended for drum brakes). In this case something to do with the system can lead to problems of corrosion in the rear slave cylinders. I don't remember the details but I am sure he will be able to tell you what it was.


Peter

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Bit scary that!

I'd be tempted to start at the back of the car and move forwards, checking as you go.

If it is the rear wheel cylinders then budget for a set of new rear brake shoes, tempting as it may be, you can't really get contaminated shoes clean enough to reuse.

One of the advantages of a Morgan is that most of the piping runs are easily accessible, unlike modern vehicles.

As the system will need 're bleeding, I'd be tempted to undo the pipe unions as well to see if the pipe flares are ok.I case across a female union on a Morgan which looked ok and tightened up ok but leaked like a sieve turned out the pope had cracked within the union.


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Originally Posted by Arwyn Williams

Bit scary that!

I'd be tempted to start at the back of the car and move forwards, checking as you go.

If it is the rear wheel cylinders then budget for a set of new rear brake shoes, tempting as it may be, you can't really get contaminated shoes clean enough to reuse.

One of the advantages of a Morgan is that most of the piping runs are easily accessible, unlike modern vehicles.

As the system will need 're bleeding, I'd be tempted to undo the pipe unions as well to see if the pipe flares are ok.I case across a female union on a Morgan which looked ok and tightened up ok but leaked like a sieve turned out the pope had cracked within the union.


Arwyn

Sage advice, Arwyn, thanks. I must confess, though, your typo made me giggle. I hadn't realised Irish religio-political discussions were usually part of a brake overhaul! smile


Doug
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Our Plus 4 year 2000 Rover started leaking from the master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch only way I noticed was my feet were getting wet, so was the floor mat as the cylinder was leaking on the inside of the front driver foot well...!!!

Beware that hydraulic fluid is an effective paint stripper DO NOT allow the fluid to come into contact with your paintwork...


Morgans 1934 MX, 1947 Series 1, 1956 +4 TR4, 2000 +4 T16
Triumph Herald 1969 13/60
Morris 1970

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I thought the whole idea of modern split circuit brakes is that if there was a fluid leak, there should always be just enough fluid in the other circuit for limited braking and a few applications, albeit with a very soggy and low pedal. Otherwise what is the point of split circuit brakes? A 1985 4/4 is long after the split circuit legislation came in. Even my 1976 Midas GT has split circuit brakes but maybe because that was originally one of the two factory built cars and not a kit.

I suppose that is why competition cars are always recommended to have separate fluid chambers or at least a chamber with a separating wall for about 1/3rd of the way up, so you always have some fluid in one circuit but only one place to fill. That is how it works on my 1977 Porsche 911 RSR which has one partially split filling pot feeding two separate master cylinders with a Bowden cable adjustable threaded balance bar between them.

Wilson

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The rear cylinders went on my 4/4. They are as you say known for it. Good luck.


JohnV6
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John V6 #591472 24/08/19 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by John V6
The rear cylinders went on my 4/4. They are as you say known for it. Good luck.


John,

Did you lose all braking or did the pedal just go very soggy and low?

Wilson

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It lost fluid e pedal was low & soggy. The brake warning light also came on.


JohnV6
2022 CX Plus Four
2025 Renault Scenic Alpine etech "Yvette"
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