First off, you'll need the right products and equipment. Here is a list of the bits and bobs that will allow you to safely maintain the appearance of your car.
Equipment
3 buckets (one for wheel brushes, two for washing) 3 microfibre or lambswool mitts (1 for wheels, 2 for bodywork) 1 tyre brush (small curved brush the width of an average tyre) 1 Meguiars slide lock brush for wire wheels Lots of microfiber cloths (these can be purchased inexpensively at Costco) 1 foam lance if you have a pressure washer 1 large microfibre drying towel 1 Meguiars all surface interior brush (for mohair hoods or carpets) 1 paint brush for applying tyre dressing 2 microfibre polishing pads or polishing sponges 1 x 1 litre pump spray bottle 3 or 4 x 500ml trigger sprayers.
Products
Car shampoo. I'd choose one from Meguairs Shampoo Plus (low cost) or Zymol Natural Car Shampoo (lovely stuff!). I don't recommend anything marketed as wash and wax. Fairy liquid will completely strip your car of any protection it might have and make your paint go dull and cloudy with time.
Meguiars Hyper Wash for pre-wash foaming purposes (only if you have the foam lance).
Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner. This is a must have and is good for 100 different jobs at different concentrations. If you don't have a foam lance, dilute to 10 parts water : 1 part APC and use as a pre-spray (dilute 4:1 for filthy tyres). You can spray it on your wheels, your hood, your carpets, your door shuts, your tyres'.. anything really.
R222 Total Auto Wash. To be used on particularly dirty exterior surfaces. Will safely shift oil, grease etc. Also great for engine bays or bug splatter. Brilliant stuff but you can manage without it if you're on a budget.
Poorboy's Bug Squash. A must have in the warmer months. Washing with shampoo will not get rid of bug splatter on your windscreen or paintwork, and if you don't do something about them they will etch into your paintwork and require a lot of polishing. Rinse any treated areas thoroughly as this is solvent based.
Autosmart Tardis. This is another must have for removing tar spots. Don't even think about using paraffin rags or turps, or scrubbing away with a cloth. This stuff is brilliant - simply spray on, leave for a minute or two, and wipe off. Rinse any treated area thoroughly as this is solvent based.
3M Glass Cleaner. This is one of the cheapest glass cleaners on the market for the inside of your windscreen. I can't think of a good reason to use a different one.
Leather cleaner. I like the Zymol leather cleaner because it even smells like leather. Raceglaze is known to be excellent too. Using a leather brush can make a real difference to your results.
Clay Bar. Perhaps for the more enthusiastic of owners. Washing your car removes loose dirt and grime, but you paint will still be loaded with contaminants that affect the finish. The clay bar will remove them and make your paint feel silky smooth. It's the perfect step to take before waxing or polishing.
Wheel Cleaner. Wolf's Chemicals Wheel Cleaner (The Brake Duster) is a fairly new product and one you should not be without. It's safe, brilliant, easy to use and inexpensive.
303 Convertible Top Cleaner. This is only needed for those of you with mohair hoods, which we all know are an expensive option so they really ought to be looked after with some proper stuff.
Tyre Dressing. Once you have removed the dirt from your tyres, applying some dressing is a nice finishing touch and stops your tyres from going grey or brown. There's not much difference between dressings in my experience, but I prefer to use one that sprays on.
Waxes, sealants, polishes and compounds. They're all different.
Polishes and compounds contain abrasives to provide a degree of cut. They are used to remove very fine scratches and minor defects. Since they contain abrasives, people are making a mistake when the routinely apply products like T-Cut to their car, as it removes a little bit of paint every time you use it. I recommend Raceglaze Signature Series Pre-wax Cut and Cleanse as a safe and easy to use polish. Polishing should really be done in preparation for waxing.
Waxes and sealants are used to enhance and protect the finish. Sealants - being man-made - are more durable, but it is generally accepted that waxes provide a richer, deeper shine. Wax is also extremely hydrophobic which results in the water beading effect that lots of people enjoy. You can use both if you wish to, but you must apply the sealant first and the wax second.
For darker colours, it will make a huge difference using a wax specifically made for darker colours, such as Poorboy's Natty's Blue Paste Wax or Dodo Juice Purple Haze.
For lighter colours such as white or silver, it is difficult to get any real depth to the finish so there is not much point in choosing a wax over a sealant. I would recommend the Jeff Werkstat Acrylic Kit which is incredibly easy to apply and gives a great shine.
Metal Sealant. Not needed for most cars, but essential for a Morgan. From the stainless steel wheels to the bumpers to the door handles to the badge bar:- all metals should be polished and protected or it will dull, fade and go cloudy. Putting this on your wheels will repel brake dust. There is only one product you should get, and that is Blackfire All Metal Sealant.
Quick Detailing Spray such as 3M Quick Wax or Meguiars Quik Detailer are optional extras. I like them as they enhance the glossy finish and using them means you don't have to dry the car as thoroughly.
Washing Technique
Line up your 3 buckets and put shampoo in two of them and clear rinse water in the other. I put my wheel brushes and mitt in one bucket of suds, and my bodywork mitts in the other.
Give your car a once over with the hose. If you are using a pressure washer, have it on a low pressure setting. Personally, I would not use a powerful pressure washer at all on the Morgan.
If you have a foam lance, put a small amount of Meguiars Hyper Wash and an equally small amount of Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner (APC) in the resevoir and fill it up with water. Cover your car in foam and let it dwell for a minute or two before rinsing off with the hose. If you don't have a foam lance, get your 1 litre sprayer and put approximately 2cm depth of APC in the bottom of it and fill the rest up with water. Pressurize the container as you walk around the car and cover it in a layer of the mixture. Rinse off with the hose.
Spray some Wolf's Brake Duster on your wheels next and leave it for 5-10 minutes. The brake dust will soon dissolve and the iron deposits will turn purple. Don't worry! Agitate it with the Meguiars Slide Lock brush if you need to get between the spokes, use your wheel mitt to give the spokes and rims a clean and rinse them off.
If your paintwork has dried off, rinse it again with the hose as it should always be wet before you put your mitts on it.
Now get your wash buckets. If you have the PVC hood, go round the car with two mitts working from top to bottom, rinsing them regularly in the bucket with clear water. This water won't be clear for long, and the idea is that any dirt and grime your mitts pick up from the car isn't transferred back on to it.
If you have a mohair hood and there are some dirty patches where birds have bombed or tree sap has landed, spray some 303 hood cleaner on to them and agitate with the Meguiars all surface interior brush. When it lathers, rinse it off gently. Then wash your car as described above.
If at this point you notice that there is bug residue on the windscreen and headlamps, give them a scoosh of Poorboy's Bug Squash (remember to dilute) or R222 autowash. Let it dwell for a couple of minutes and then wash it off with your mitt. You can use Bug Squash on paintwork too, but it contains solvents and will do a good job of stripping wax off, so it's best to reapply some wax after you've finished washing.
It is important to thoroughly rinse wherever you have used Bug Squash or Tardis.
Your car should be looking clean by now!
The optional step of claying your car should be done a couple of times a year. Working in areas about 18 square inches, spray some water/shampoo mix onto the car to lubricate it, then dip your clay bar into the shampoo bucket. Take a flat surface of the clay and lightly rub it back and forth over your paintwork. The clay will collect the bonded contaminants from the surface. If it sticks, you need more lubrication. Once an area is finished, dry it with a microfibre cloth and move on to the next area. If you have done it correctly, the paint will feel incredibly smooth.
If you are not claying, get the large microfibre drying towel, fold it and pat dry the surfaces. Use a normal microfibre cloth in your other hand to absorb the final drops. This takes a bit longer than wiping off or just leaving it to dry, but wiping really does marr the finish and water spots/streaks don't look good at all.
Once your car is dry, it's best to stick it in the garage or in the shade before polishing or waxing or applying a sealant.
If you're doing one, two or all three of these steps, the order they should be done in is POLISH - SEALANT - WAX.
Go round the car once applying your chosen protectant with a microfibre pad or polishing sponge, then go around the car again buffing it off with a cloth. Misting with some water makes this process a bit easier. Don't let the sun bake the product on the car before you buff it off. It wont do any damage, but it will be hard work getting it off.
You can now apply the finishing touches such as tyre dressing and metal sealant.
I spray the tyre dressing on and then even it out with a paintbrush, but don't apply too much or it will look really greasy. Have a cloth ready to wipe off any excess that runs onto your wheels.
Use a microfibre cloth or pad to apply the metal sealant to your wheels, door handles, bumpers etc, and then buff it off to leave it shiny and protected.
If you have a quick detailing spray, go round the car looking for streaks or fingerprints and get rid of them. Simply spray on and wipe off.
Voila.
FAQ'S
How long does wax last?
Depends on the miles you do, weather and whether or not you keep it in a garage, but 2-3 months is the norm. Some sealants will last 4-6 months.
What about paint protection like Diamond Brite or Supaguard?
If applied correctly (dealerships rarely do in my experience) then I have seen them used to some effect, but nothing like the claimed 3-5 years of protection.
Is the car cleaning kit I bought from the dealership any good?
It will be overpriced. I've used (under duress!) stuff from BMW, Jaguar and many more, and it doesn't compare to the products I've recommended.
Are the £5 roadside car washes any good?
No. You get what you pay for, and for £5 you get some very harsh and aggressive chemicals blasted on to your car and then blasted off again with no regard whatsoever for the life of your paintwork.
Where can I get all these products?
I get everything from the internet. The Zymol shampoo and leather cleaner are available at a great price from Halfords shops.
Is Autoglym any good?
Their brand certainly is as I get asked this all the time. It's ok. Their HD wax is impressive but none of their other products are as good as the others I've mentioned in my opinion.
Is Swissvax any good?
It's brilliant but there's no denying it's expensive.
Do bird droppings really damage your paint?
Yes! If you don't get it wiped off quite quickly the acid will leave a big etching mark on your paintwork, which will require machine polishing to remove it.
I'm sure your advice will prove to be of tremendous value to those interested in these sorts labours .But why bother ? It's only going to get dirty again . My Plus 4 has a wash and brush up at Malvern when it has its annual service.
U2C1 - this is a brilliant (sorry for the unintended pun!)and clear detailed guide to add to the excellent summary you posted earlier - thanks very much for this, and for the time you have taken to help us all.
I'm sure your advice will prove to be of tremendous value to those interested in these sorts labours .But why bother ? It's only going to get dirty again . My Plus 4 has a wash and brush up at Malvern when it has its annual service.
I don't know mate, why do people wash the windows on their house? I think it's a sin to have such a great looking car and not look after it. It's all about pride of ownership for me. I actually enjoy cleaning and polishing etc. so it's a no-brainer for me.
I was looking at a Brescia Bugatti last month and it has never been waxed or polished probably since the war ! The fellow who it belongs to is a very proud and enthusiastic owner who has owned it for over fifty years and would never dream of destroying the patina ....literally all it gets is the occasional rub down with an oily rag after its been thrashed up bumpy and muddy trials hills. It looks fabulous. Shiny is just not my sort of thing . Regards Gerry
If you want to get into detailing your car then this is a good resource and has links to several suppliers. There are some examples of Morgans on here too.
Thanks for taking the time to provide all the info...its a great help. I got into detailing a bit when I had a dark blue Z4. Never knew anything about it before but things like swirls and scratches which showed up so much on the car got me looking into it. Not sure I'd call it fun the amount of time I spent on the car cleaning it but the end results were worth it. Swore I'd always stick to silver cars after that but I've ended up with a Sport Green 4/4 so guess I'll be spending time on it!
Beethoven....I can see where you are coming from as well. I've seen some lovely patinated classics over the years; rather those than an over restored classic car or bike.
Jays Former Morgan owner. Gone but hopefully not forgotten!
I was looking at a Brescia Bugatti last month and it has never been waxed or polished probably since the war ! The fellow who it belongs to is a very proud and enthusiastic owner who has owned it for over fifty years and would never dream of destroying the patina ....literally all it gets is the occasional rub down with an oily rag after its been thrashed up bumpy and muddy trials hills. It looks fabulous. Shiny is just not my sort of thing . Regards Gerry
Some cars will always look fabulous. I used to look after some beautiful cars, and there was something about a dirty Ferrari that made it stand out, as if to say "I'm a Ferrari and I actually get used!!!!" It wouldn't be mine, but each to their own as you say.
I like detailing French fashion, wash Citroen/ Pug / Renault with a wet rag and scouring powder in the spring, repeat the following spring. - apparently this was the norm for much of France until quite recently
There may be some wax in it, but not enough to offer any sort of protection to your car.
The wash and wax shampoos are not mild at all in my experience, and so they kind of do the opposite of what they are supposed to do. They add nothing in the way of protection and act quite harshly on the protection that you do have!
If you use a lambswool mit, you may find this tip useful.
When the new kitchen was fitted, I took the extending towel rail and screwed it under the bench. No clear idea what it would be used for but I'm loathe to throw anything away.
Then I realised that it makes an ideal place to dry out the lambswool mit...........
DaveW '05 Red Roadster S1 '16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
I think that a woman's respect for the garage boundaries is crucial for a healthy relationship. My mrs used my wash buckets to feed the horses a few weeks ago. It will be years before I trust her with the combination for the new padlock
It will be years before I trust her with the combination for the new padlock
There's a brave man, locking up SWMBO...............................that's at the other end of the spectrum to DaveW!
Another sado masochistic, whips/cuffs/padlock joke from Brian ... I am seeing a pattern here; many a true word spoken in jest ...
Wow Boshers, and I was just thinking he'd locked her in the house. I think you've obviously got other things on your mind. You've been a bit quiet on TM this Easter, maybe been a bit tied-up; I suppose?
Brian
1970 Morgan Plus 8 - Moss Box (Indigo Blue) 2014 Morgan SP1 (Rocket Red) 2015 Morgan Plus 8 (Rocket Blue)
I use the washing machine/dishwasher/tumble drier at suitable times.... When the Empress is out! No comebacks yet! I did once clean a couple of small parts in the dishwasher as an experiment. It worked! Not risked any more yet though!
It is also brilliant for cleaning my tools, I mean my mates tools in his dishwasher not ours, definitely not ours. In the cutlery tray at the top, or so he says,if yours has got one, like ours, I mean his.
It is also brilliant for cleaning my tools, I mean my mates tools in his dishwasher not ours, definitely not ours. In the cutlery tray at the top, or so he says,if yours has got one, like ours, I mean his.
Hmm, I suspect something but can't put my finger on it.
My first motorbike was largely assembled in my brother's dining room and my second was often stripped and built in my mum's kitchen. I've never actually done anything but polish bit's in my own house - too sensible.
The thing is though - I always end with a lightly oily cloth cleaning all the tools before I put them away. Why would your friend need the strength of a dishwasher?
One thing though - I try not to use chemicals too much and have found an excellent bug remover from glass and headlights is any cheap sort of nylon pot scourer + hot water + a bit of work. I've even been known to use it on the stainless - it's not done my pots any harm after 15 odd years and it's not created any lasting issues on my bumper or mirrors.
Whats the best way to deal with water stain marks on my bonnet, do I need to use one of those cleansers (such as autoglyms HD cleanser )to get the old wax off before polishing out and rewaxing?
I am real excited. It seems that Walmart in the States not carries Meguiars products. They even had the clay cleaning kit. I have never seen the clay before.
Put a bin liner over the engine when you do that, just remember to take it off before you drive away.........
Great Thread which I had missed thus far.
I have gone a stage further and cut two under bonnet shaped pieces of stiff polythene sheeting to cover the engine. After washing it is easy to lift off taking the water with it.
The other point not mentioned here is the factories recommendation (in my handbook) to run some thin oil (3in1 type) along the sealing rubbers, along the wings, to help keep the excess water, that gathers there under the doors, out of the seam at that point where the body frame is most vulnerable.
I don't know how effective the process is but I keep it up.
The last point essential to my wash is the Autoglym Synthetic Chamois which just sops up the excess water leaving a smudge free deep shine. It was great on the Sunset Yellow 4/4 and is equally effective on the Metalic Amazon Green. It is great for drying off the Mohair Hood as well
Frank, if you use aerosol Tectyl or Dinitrol instead of 3in1, sprayed into the lid and applied with a fine brush, it wicks into the joint surprisingly easily. I do that each winter. Also do it above and below the beading.
DaveW '05 Red Roadster S1 '16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
One thing though - I try not to use chemicals too much and have found an excellent bug remover from glass and headlights is any cheap sort of nylon pot scourer + hot water + a bit of work. I've even been known to use it on the stainless - it's not done my pots any harm after 15 odd years and it's not created any lasting issues on my bumper or mirrors.
J
I would be very careful with nylon pot scourers. The same material is used to make the circular swirl marks on metal plate. I used a new one to remove something like a chemical resin that splashed on my windscreen (truck load spill?)on the Autostrada. I suspect that if I had used a used potscourer it may not have been so bad but I will never do it again. I have spent hours with a buff and jewellers polish to remove the worst of the scratches.
The ultimate tip on bug removal came from Ivo a while ago. Soak a cloth/towel in water (warm water even better) Spread the towel on the bugged area and let soak. After 15min the bugs just wipe off easy. Works a treat. (thanks Ivo ) Cheers J
The front of my house (where my less pampered cars get parked - the mog goes in the garage) is overshadowed by a couple of huge poplars in the golf course next door. I suffer from reddish sappy spots on the paintwork which seem impossible to remove. Any of you car cleaning experts have the answer ?
Where I live the problem is seagull sh*t, so a good coat of wax is essential if you don't want the paint chemically etched. Also I have stuck with a vinyl hood as I have seen the damage that the afore-mentioned can have on mohair.
Just tried Spray'nShine on newly bought + 4. This is a waterles wash and wax Tried it first on wifes Fiat 500 just in case. Snow is now melting leaving a superb shine. This is superb cleaning if your lazy like me
purchased on web for about 23 for 5 ltrs
I don't care how cold it is, we're having the roof down.
Gentlemen I dont have to tell you , you only get out as much as you put in . If you sit on your arse and expect the fairies to keep it clean then its wake up time .Yes I hear the usual shout of we drive ours , so did Jeremy Harrison even across the USA so your shout eats no meat its a shout of lazyness and I cant be bothered if you are 100% honest to yourself . To achieve a very high shine there is no substitute for a very high quality wax many quality micro fibre dusters and many many many hours of elbow grease and not to polish the car in small circles but with the length of the wing or bonnet etc . Once you reach a high standard it is easy to keep on top of it .
I use Ideal World's Showroom Shine, on Wife's Freelander, my BMW X3 and our Morgan 4/4, best cleaner going in my humble opinion. Leaves a lasting shine, protects the paint and helps cleaning the next time!
How does it cope with without first rinsing off the stuck on dirt? I'd have thought thatbtherevwas a risk of scratching the paintwork.
It does say on the bottles that you need to clean heavy deposits of dirt off first!
I recently bought some and it's very good. I have a dark blue Range Rover and waxing it is a lot of work, so I cleaned and dried it first and then used this stuff. It was the easiest wax I've ever used. Wipe it on, wipe it off. Which when you have panels the size of barn doors is a bonus!
When I eventually get my Morgan, I will probably use my vast stocks of Zymol....
So after buying my Roadster in September and using it most weekends, I have decided that this weekend the car should have some TLC.
As it is black I will probably need to work a bit harder to get the shine back and all teh dirt off.
Has anyone tried Turtle Wax Black Box Polish and wax on their black cars? understand it can be a bit messy, but want to know if it is any good.
Thanks for any advise of otehr products to maintain high shine on a black car.
I am no purest when it comes to cleaning but I have a black car and use the turtle wax black polish and it's great. Will stain your cloths black but worth it and easy to use.
I would look at a paint sealant 1st like Auto finesse tough coat. Amazing product for shine and protection. If you want to mask paint defects then the turtle wax will work but its only supposed to be used in small areas. Finish the car off with a real carnuba wax. We offer car detailing so i have tried many different products over the years.
Thanks for the tip Henry....i'd not seen the Auto Finesse range before. They seem to have some interesting products and might well pull me away from my usual Meguiars products!
Jays Former Morgan owner. Gone but hopefully not forgotten!
In the Morgan handbook it says use wax and not polish. I queried this with Morgans and they confirmed that polishes contain a fine cutting agent which removes paint from the finer edges on the Morgan. This is borne out by my friends +8, which had to go back to the factory because the paint had worn down to the primer on the louvre edges on the bonnet. The paint is thin on the edge and you inevitably put more pressure on these fine areas. I do however, polish the main areas avoiding edges, then wax the whole car. When the wax goes the polish takes over until I can be bothered to wax again. I use Autoglym wax that seemed very expensive at the time, but I have used it a lot and the pot is still nearly full.
Titus
2007 +4 4 seater 2017 Mini Cooper 2007 VW Camper 1996 Honda TRX300 2012 Husqvarna 216
Thats the stuff I am about to use it on the chassis and under the wings, but forget the tiny swirls movement go with the flow of the metal wing's from front to rear same on the bonnet etc it take longer but well worth it . It's about 45/- posted to my door but if it lasts a year then thats less than a quid a week . Wash your micro fibre dusters out and the sponge's ( keep them damp in a sealed food bag ) You can pick up a RAMER SPONGE in Boots these are the same except they are a little thicker 3CM so take that bit extra work load .
I use Autoglym wax that seemed very expensive at the time, but I have used it a lot and the pot is still nearly full. [/quote]
Thanks for the tip Jack. My sponges are greasy from the bonnet catches (see Quiet bonnet catches)and even with washing you pick up oil from around the car.
Titus
2007 +4 4 seater 2017 Mini Cooper 2007 VW Camper 1996 Honda TRX300 2012 Husqvarna 216
I have given up on polish as well and now use only wax. It gives a far deeper shine to my Sport Black car. I use Autoglym Polish only on the chrome bits as it still gives the best shine to chrome and metal.
A product called "Poorboys Nattys Blue Paste Wax" which smells of chewing gum gets my vote no matter what it is used for. Thanks for your advice Used2clean1 I have ordered a pot. I'll keep you informed of progress.
Just when I thought it couldn't get any better I have just ordered a "Dodo Juice Fantastic Fur Microfibre Buffing Cloth". .............this is car cleaning porn at its ultimate!
Advice needed. There are what appear to be small pale circle marks on the bonnet which I think my have resulted from parking the car with rain still on the bonnet and the engine hot (that is a guess). I have tried Autoglym polish and Autoglym paint restorer but they will not go away.
p.s. Like many above I have taken to using Autoglym wax polish, provides a deep glossy finish, and does not cut into the paint.
p.p.s. I must get back into the two bucket method. Used the three beers method to get rid of the flies on front wing the other day. That method still works.
Last edited by A11OGE; 21/07/1310:49 AM. Reason: correcting spelling - again
You may have to go more drastic Steve. It depends if it's bleached by the sun, or if it's a residue from hard water. Meguiars do an ultimate cutting compound and a milder finishing polish. Look at their product range, and decide which you fancy. Red is quite prone to this, and I've already had problems with my Golf when I don't leather it off after washing........
DaveW '05 Red Roadster S1 '16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
Steve, have a look at Meguiars . I've used their clay bar in the past and you need to use lubrication with it, such as Meguiars Quick Detailer. It will gently take off surface contaminants and any traces of wax as well, so you need to reseal the surface with wax afterwards.
Jays Former Morgan owner. Gone but hopefully not forgotten!
Steve, have a look at Meguiars . I've used their clay bar in the past and you need to use lubrication with it, such as Meguiars Quick Detailer. It will gently take off surface contaminants and any traces of wax as well, so you need to reseal the surface with wax afterwards.
This.
Just back from the butchers.
Buy yourself a clay bar and matching lubricating spray. Don't be a cheapskate and use washing up liquid. Buy the proper stuff.
Wash and dry your car in the normal way.
Pull off a 50p sized dollop of the the clay.
Spray maybe a one foot square area of paint work with the lubricant - I'd do this when the car is cool and not in direct heat such as we've had recently.... So, spray the area and then GENTLY rub backwards and forwards (not circular) over the lubricated area.
Once your panels have been clayed, as Jays says, they are then unprotected - naked, vulnerable! You will need to wax these areas to protect them.
You will not damage your paintwork.
Take a look at the clay surface that you've been rubbing with. It will be black with crap from the paintwork. Fold this in to your blob of clay, spray a new area and start again.
Once clayed, your paintwork will feel super smooth to the touch and all marks removed.
Far better to use this somewhat laborious technique than any cutting polish or compound.
I favour Megs, having changed over to it from years of Autoglym, mainly because I think that the waxes and polishes leave less residue.....but no doubt someone else prefers the opposite! Megs was recommended to me when I was on the Zed forum....a lot of the guys were heavily into detailing which was something completely new to me and all I wanted was some advice on removing some swirl marks. I thought Megs was the bee knees until I delved further and realised what exotically named and priced cleaning preparations are out there!
It could well be hard water residue...I've had similar in the past and am now extra careful in drying off the car after washing.
Last edited by Jays; 23/07/1306:54 AM.
Jays Former Morgan owner. Gone but hopefully not forgotten!
Just as an aside, there's a new formula of Autoglym Super Resin polish which seems residue free. Worth trying - on Amazon. Autoglym is the Marks & Sparks of polishes, Megs and Zymol are a bit more Bond Street. Having said that, Autoglym is really good stuff - the new formula particularly.
Steve.... As to your small circular marks. It's very hard to say what they might be - it certainly sounds like water marks. Just go really easy on anything you do - you won't do damage with a clay bar, but cutting polishes can be difficult.
Take a look at Kleen freeks site . You can use the hard wax and let it set or leave it on the car for months ( lay up time winter ) it is harder work than Auto Glym but worth it.
I'm the same - moved to Meguiars from Autoglym for the same reasons. Clay will deal with hard water residue, so keep your fingers crossed! If it's bleached it will only come out with cutting.
DaveW '05 Red Roadster S1 '16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
I've been trying to deal with some stone ships and a longer chip on the top of a wing. Using Chipex I've usually been able to flatten the new paint but for some reason, probably the hot weather, the paint dried too quickly to flatten using the kit. After trying mild rubbing compound and getting nowhere I've ended up very carefully using P2500 wet and dry paper to flatten the paint followed by rubbing compound and then something I've not used before but seems quite impressive... Farecla G3 scratch remover. This seems to be quite gentle in action but clears up any small scratches. I then finished off with my favourite polish...Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and then Meguiars Carnuba Wax.
It might all be a bit too drastic for your marks Steve.....you could miss out the wet and dry...and probably should!
Jays Former Morgan owner. Gone but hopefully not forgotten!
Steve, I have a similar issue on the bonnet and around the top of the wings of my red 4/4. I wondered if it was connected to the autoglym hi def wax I used - as the first circles appeared after I treated it to some a year or so ago.
Last year I had the car detailed which improved it a lot, but the chap who did it was reticent to get too aggressive with the cutting compound on 24 year old paint.
I think I need to let him have another go, I had been wondering about clay, as I was able to restore the blackness back to our jeep last summer
Jays. For dealing with stone chips you need a dozen pencils with rubbers on the end, 3 grades of fine wet and dry, a hole puncher for putting A4 into a ring binder/ leather punch, some evostik plus paint, thinners, fine artists brushes, autoglym polish or similar and a 40w inspection lamp. I usually buy the paint from Halfords, spray cans give a better result than touch up sticks, look around the carparks for cars that are a good match to your Morgan then buy the appropriate colour.
Punch some circles of wet and dry and glue to rubbers on your pencils. This will allow you to flatten the paint between coats without colateral damage, just rotate the pencil between thumb and fingers applying light pressure. Use the inspection lamp to bake the paint between coats and when satisfied finish off with the autoglym. On non metallic paints it is possible to achieve a near invisible repair.
Being a bit of Jay Leno fan I happened upon this video advocating the steam cleaning of cars, outside, inside and under the bonnet. Surely this can't be right.
Being a bit of Jay Leno fan I happened upon this video advocating the steam cleaning of cars, outside, inside and under the bonnet. Surely this can't be right.
I beleive that steam cleaning wash all the rage 20 years ago, the engine bay and suspension being given a thorough claer. It was then found that the steam cleaning was removing oil and grease from areas that need protection. Chrome wire wheel were also a problem, as the steam could be forced between the spokes.
This stuff is excellent for cleaning leather - used a leather wipe in the re sealable packets - little effect so got this from the Wife's cleaning cupboard and it lifts the grime off a treat.
Used a leather wipe to apply it and a clean leather wipe afterwards to remove any residue.
Called White Wizard - it is waxy stuff - wife says it came out of a catalogue years ago. Made by LB Roe California.
2021 Lapis Blue Plus 6 You know it makes sense! 2016 Carmine Red 991.2 C4S
I think I typed "how to wash a Morgan" into Google
Wish I'd never bothered now ! :santahohoho:
1) Park in Garage as normal 2) Wait for river level to rise
I do hope all's well, and your water's receding
You'll need a good quality dehumidifier, let me know & I'll send it your way.
'tis a leftover from a leaking bathroom - the lovely chaps who built the extension didn't bother themselves to move the loo overflow, even though their extension put the overflow inside... Genius!
Formerly Aero S5 #80 Currently 911 (992) Targa in python green
It takes all sorts doesnt it, but for the life of me I cant understand people who make a hobby of "detailing". How can cleaning ever be fun? Like weeding, or decorating, or doing your tax return
It takes all sorts doesnt it, but for the life of me I cant understand people who make a hobby of "detailing". How can cleaning ever be fun? Like weeding, or decorating, or doing your tax return
Howard, you clearly don't understand the joy of being a bit OCD!!
Peter, 66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...
It takes all sorts doesnt it, but for the life of me I cant understand people who make a hobby of "detailing". How can cleaning ever be fun? Like weeding, or decorating, or doing your tax return
Or going out on the ocean in a tiny little boat in the howling wind and the freezing rain, just to see if you can go round in a circle faster than some other people?
Chacun a son gout, and all that...
Tim H. 1986 4/4 VVTi Sport, 2002 LR Defender, 2022 Mini Cooper SE
A little like the rotating head on an electric toothbrush.
It might be useful for all of those nooks. It is a brush head attachment for a domestic garden hose. I would guess useful for wheels and radiator cowls.
Last edited by Alistair; 23/01/1805:56 PM. Reason: added video
Everyone loves a Morgan. Even me, unless it's broken again.
A little like the rotating head on an electric toothbrush.
It might be useful for all of those nooks. It is a brush head attachment for a domestic garden hose. I would guess useful for wheels and radiator cowls.
I think it’s quite good - should make light work of wire wheels if the brush head is narrow enough
The video is just painfully awful
Why do people post these awfully dull slow unscripted unboxing videos - we get what it does. You could show what it does in 30 seconds
I’m only interested in watching some one doing something if they are an expert imparting expertise and knowledge
2008 XXVII Platform, Bugatti Blue Roadster 4 Seater
I seem to remember you extolling the virtues of a Meguiars product for washing the car without washing it (if you know what I mean). I have had a mooch on the site but can't spot it.
What is it called and does it not hairline scratch the paintwork if the car hasn't previously had grit etc rinsed off? Or have I misunderstood?
Not seen that one before. Looks useful. I have been using the Quik Detailer for a while now and have been pleased - I keep a bottle in the car when touring.
Paul Costock, UK Plus Four 75th - Furka Rouge - Pip Disco 5 Teddy - 17h1 Irish Draught cross
Sorry Stuart, I missed your post asking about the product I recommended
It is the Ultimate Quick Detailer
The important things to remember
1. Don’t use on heavily soiled paintwork - I use it on dusty paintwork 2. Lightly spray and use a large high quality microfibre folded into 4 and lightly use it initially to get the dust and any light dirt off the paintwork - microfibres use static to bring off the dust, turning the cloth over 3. When all the dust is off the paintwork then refold the cloth so that you have the fresh quarters. Spray again and wipe until dry
I love the stuff, in fact I stocked up with another two bottles this evening
I use it on my wire wheels as well with a couple of microfibres that I use only for the wheels
I can also recommend Poorboys microfibre cleaning detergent for the washing machine
2008 XXVII Platform, Bugatti Blue Roadster 4 Seater
Thanks to you both and for your comprehensive reply Stewart.
A trip to Halfords tomorrow I think.
I'm going to get both the Ultimate Quick Detailer and the Ultimate Wash & Wax Anywhere. It will be interesting to do half of the car in each to see if there's a difference.
Sorry Stuart, I missed your post asking about the product I recommended
It is the Ultimate Quick Detailer
The important things to remember
1. Don’t use on heavily soiled paintwork - I use it on dusty paintwork 2. Lightly spray and use a large high quality microfibre folded into 4 and lightly use it initially to get the dust and any light dirt off the paintwork - microfibres use static to bring off the dust, turning the cloth over 3. When all the dust is off the paintwork then refold the cloth so that you have the fresh quarters. Spray again and wipe until dry
I love the stuff, in fact I stocked up with another two bottles this evening
I use it on my wire wheels as well with a couple of microfibres that I use only for the wheels
I can also recommend Poorboys microfibre cleaning detergent for the washing machine
You're coming along nicely Stewart....
DaveW '05 Red Roadster S1 '16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
Hi David I may have missed it but what is the best wheel cleaner for stainless steel spoke wheels? Have to say I am frightened to put anything on them.
Last edited by Jonathan G; 09/04/1806:25 PM. Reason: Spelling
2021 Morgan Plus Four 2012 Morgan Three Wheeler 2020 Land Rover Defender 110
Autoglym Custom Wheel Cleaner is safe on all wheels. I have used it on stainless wires for several years and find it excellent. MWS supply Morgan wheels and they also sell a cleaning kit.
Last edited by petemog; 09/04/1807:11 PM. Reason: Extra info
Autoglym Custom Wheel Cleaner is safe on all wheels. I have used it on stainless wires for several years and find it excellent. MWS supply Morgan wheels and they also sell a cleaning kit.
Agree
Any wheel cleaner that states it’s safe on custom wheels such as painted wheels will be safe on stainless wheels
Don’t use alloy wheel cleaner as it’s too acidic
2008 XXVII Platform, Bugatti Blue Roadster 4 Seater
I think this has been mentioned before, but anyway: obviously the less you thouch the paint of your car, the less swirl marks. So the other day I dried my car using a garden leaf blower. Took me just a few minutes, not leaving a single drop of water anywhere - not even in corners and recesses. The condition is the paint is well waxed and thus hydrophobic. Two precautions though: take care that you do it on reasonably clean concrete or tarmac ground, so gravel or dirt doesn't get sucked into the blower and is shot against the car. And secondly, be careful so the cable doesn't rub the paintwork. Farewll, drying cloths... Robbie
Robbie the Norseman 2004 V6 Roadster Sherwood green
I’ve been a fan of Meguires for sometime now and have used their Gold Class shampoo for a number of years, finishing the car off with an aqua wax. Thought I’d try something different this time so whilst I was in Halfords I bought some of their Ultimate Wash & Wax (the yellow stuff). Washed Caron’s Evoque and was pretty blown away with the result. Buffs up beautifully for those lazy car washers who want the best results for the least effort. Have to go out in the Morgan now to get it dirty so I can try it on that. Won’t use it on the hood though. Does anyone use wash & wax on a mohair hood?
Morgan Plus 4 Royal Enfield Classic 350 Brompton M6L Giant TCX Advanced
I got one of those " huge thick drying cloths" when TM visited Meguiars this year - its brilliant, quick-easy and very effective. Recently bought another as halfordfs have them ( and the entire Meguiars range) at 20% off.
2015 Morgan 4/4 (Wolf fettled) previously 2014 M3W MINI Cooper S and numerous BMC/BL relics.
My tip of the day: If you have a block paving style driveway done at your house, be very careful that you don’t let any of the kiln-dried sand accidentally get onto your wash-mitt or drying cloths or you may end up with tiny swirl marks all over the wire’s car and your own windscreen.
Morgan Plus 4 Royal Enfield Classic 350 Brompton M6L Giant TCX Advanced
My tip of the day: If you have a block paving style driveway done at your house, be very careful that you don’t let any of the kiln-dried sand accidentally get onto your wash-mitt or drying cloths or you may end up with tiny swirl marks all over the wire’s car and your own windscreen.
I just snow foam it, jet it off and then switch the jet wash water feed to a container of PURE water. You can buy it from fish shops for around 5p a litre and it’s sold as DIRO (de-ionised reverse osmosis). It’s what the window cleaners use and the aim is to jet off the tap water. If the tap water drys it leaves streaks, the DIRO drives without leaving a lark as there is nothing in it to get left behind. Stops those swirl marks.
Following on from recommendations on this thread and other forums (fora?) I tackled the Mog today after a quick run out in the country.
Following the 2 bucket method, snow foam, shampoo, and detailing spray to finish I was chuffed with the results.
Picture 1 is the passenger door looking very shiny!
The bucket in the reflection in the picture above is about 8 feet from the car
The picture above with the light on the camera phone shows lack of swirling by following the advice on this forum
I must admit that after collection my local car valeting chap gave the car a thorough detailing and I think much of the ability to get such a good finish myself is starting from a solid base.
Fat Wolfie - that is one v shiny car! I must confess I haven’t yet washed my car. Not through laziness per se but more through not having the correct washing solution or water (v hard water where we live). However, I do use detailer with microfibre cloths pretty much after every trip and seems to bring up a nice shine. Probably the wrong thing to do but.... HB
Plus Four Bentley Velvet Red “Grandi P” Golf ehybrid thingy “Toadie” Polestar 4 “Vger”
I get much better results, now we have water decalcifier installed, no more drops that leave a white lime deposit on dark blue. I use mentioned towel for drying and the 2 bucket method as taught on this forum by Dave W. I confess I am more of a driver than a car cleaner...
2025 Plus Six - 1909 2009 Roadster 1983 4/4 4str Board member Morgan Sports Car Club Holland ('21)
Collecting the “New MOG”, Phil Benfield at AW gave me a useful hint re washing the car.
Now I may be accused of teaching grandmother to suck eggs but I thought that this might be useful to pass on.
Prior to applying any water to the car, open the bonnet and spread an old towel over the top of the engine (particularly Zetec and Duratec) to protect the spark plugs channel from water ingress/collection that will inevitably come in through the top bonnet louvres.
Wash the car as normal then following the wiping down, remove the towel before staring the engine. - Obviously!
I wish I had been given this hint seven years go when we bought our first MOG, It would have saved me a lot of hassle with changing seized plugs!
I’m trying to find the Wolf’s Chemicals wheel cleaner (duster), but it looks like they’ve stopped selling it. Appears to have been replaced by a pH 2-3 nano cleaner. Wolf’s Chemical nano wheel cleaner
What are people using on black spoked wheels? (M3W)
Afternoon chaps - I expect plenty of you are making the most of our self-insolating to clean, polish etc. It's one to get out of the house, and if doesn't find you it can be a rewarding couple of hours.
I'm cut and pasting the method into the next ThamesMOG newsletter. I wonder how many of our members will take up the two bucket challenge.
I am being bombarded with adverts for Ceramic Sealants, has anyone tried these products and what do you think of the results? I am an old fashioned Polish and Wax guy at the moment.
Bruce 1964 4/4 Series V Comp (Megan) 1994 +8 (Maurice) tis no more 2013 M3W (Olga)
Bruce, strange you mentioned that, I have a friend who was on his mobile phone (iPhone) to his son and discussing where to go skiing this year, as they do every year. There was an Amazon Alexa in the room and the next day his son was bombarded with skiing holiday ‘offers’. Another friend who has a Samsung Android phone was last week speaking to his brother and mentioned he needed new tyres on his bike. He subscribes to the Daily Mail online, the next day a header on the newspaper was advertising bike tyres! Be careful out there....
1969 4/4 1995 plus 8 1996 Plus 4 4seater 2002 Aero S1 2013 M3W 2014 Plus 8
A quick question concerning the renovation of paintwork on a 2012 trad.
The paintwork is in reasonable superficial condition but is slightly rough to the touch. I would like to improve the paintwork for long term ownership and I think my options are:
1 Clay bar the surface, 2. T Cut the paint or 3. Use polish
I have no experience of clay baring but have used T Cut to good advantage in the past. Following any of the above options I would use good quality wax to protect the paint surface.
Any advice on the way to go would be much appreciated. Bob.
I have tried clay bars,the trick is to get a lot of the cleaning fluid on it so the clay bat slides easily over the surface, also be careful to not drop it or it will pick up dirt and scratch the car.
But for a cheap way to renovate the paint try using ice. Two years ago my son bought a car that had been sitting in a backyard for a few years, it had lots of dirt and lots of nasty black dots that just wouldn't wash off. I read about ice so got a large ice block from the freezer, gently rubbed it over that paint work and as the ice melts you can rub it faster. All the nasty dirt came off better than a clay bar and if you drop it on the ground you can go to the freezer to get another block of ice. Since then I have used ice one all my cars before polishing them and very happy with the results.
I have tried clay bars,the trick is to get a lot of the cleaning fluid on it so the clay bat slides easily over the surface, also be careful to not drop it or it will pick up dirt and scratch the car.
But for a cheap way to renovate the paint try using ice. Two years ago my son bought a car that had been sitting in a backyard for a few years, it had lots of dirt and lots of nasty black dots that just wouldn't wash off. I read about ice so got a large ice block from the freezer, gently rubbed it over that paint work and as the ice melts you can rub it faster. All the nasty dirt came off better than a clay bar and if you drop it on the ground you can go to the freezer to get another block of ice. Since then I have used ice one all my cars before polishing them and very happy with the results.
There are industrial cleaning processes that use sprayed, powdered ice to great effect. It is slightly abrasive, self lubricating and works well. The idea of using an Ice bar is inspired! The only downside I can think of is "cold hands"!!
Peter, 66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...
I am being bombarded with adverts for Ceramic Sealants, has anyone tried these products and what do you think of the results? I am an old fashioned Polish and Wax guy at the moment.
I too have been bombarded with adverts for ceramic polishes etc...... I succumbed..
What is the collective's thoughts on the use of the power-spray when washing a Morgan (as seen in this video). Would hate to think what my carpets would be like after this treatment.
Originally Posted by xc68anc
Now there is an official video on YouTube how to wash a MOG. Not shure if only for CX or all models... ;-)
Very interesting and thorough video, but surely he is being far too aggressive when cleaning the mohair hood with a pressure washer and what sounds like a pretty stiff brush ??
I was always warned not to use pressure washer on wire wheels as this could force water into the gaps between the spokes and the rim and would contribute to rust forming. This may only apply to CWW and not so much to Stainless Steel.
Originally Posted by Peter J
Pressure wash the wheels...certainly, but nothing else. Too many chemicals for my taste. All seemed a bit obsessive.
I was always warned not to use pressure washer on wire wheels as this could force water into the gaps between the spokes and the rim and would contribute to rust forming. This may only apply to CWW and not so much to Stainless Steel.
Steve: I was given similar advice, for the same reason, by a well respected Morgan dealer. I tend not to use a pressure washer on any part of my 4/4. I much prefer a gentler approach and use a watering can to remove soap suds.
Pleased you said that Simon. It confirms I'm not going mad (just yet) - Hope you and Suzie are doing well.
Originally Posted by Budster
Originally Posted by A11OGE
I was always warned not to use pressure washer on wire wheels as this could force water into the gaps between the spokes and the rim and would contribute to rust forming. This may only apply to CWW and not so much to Stainless Steel.
Steve: I was given similar advice, for the same reason, by a well respected Morgan dealer. I tend not to use a pressure washer on any part of my 4/4. I much prefer a gentler approach and use a watering can to remove soap suds.
I don't personally use a pressure washer on my cars, but to be fair to those that do, it's very easy to avoid doing any damage by simply using them from farther away. Although it's true that the jet can do an awful lot of damage when used close up, the effects diminish very quickly with distance.
For a demonstration, take a garden hose with a standard nozzle on it adjusted to give a narrow jet and squirt it up in the air, 45 degrees for max range. If you have decent water pressure it'll go a significant distance. Now do the same with a pressure washer. The water comes blasting out of the nozzle with a couple of magnitudes more pressure than the hose, but won't go anything like as high in the air. I can squirt water from my garden hose a good 20 metres or more across the garden but the pressure washer turns into mist in less than 5.
Tim H. 1986 4/4 VVTi Sport, 2002 LR Defender, 2022 Mini Cooper SE
Harley-Davidson switch over from classic bearing to industrial bearings around 2000. The problem was: more and more riders uses a private Paket pressure washer with degreaser. The grease was washed out - the bearing collapses.
The same thing with bicycles. A lot of BikeComponents have a very short living... not only the bad quality.
René
2018 plus4 (sports green) with a homemade really shiny red tinted dash…
Too aggressive with the Mohair could lead to pilling on the surface & pressure washing may break the bond between the two fabric layers Far too much PW into the wheel arches, on a trad there's a lot of exposed bullet connectors tucked under (yes it was a CX) & he was so close with the lance, then with multiple squirts of TFR that would strip waxoil type underseals Multiple applications of traffic film remover on the topcoat paint will quickly strip your highly buffed wax protection Then some nasty thing that blead purple, with the comment it's acidic...yikes !
I have been using the Bilt Hamber APC as long as I can remember, it won't touch the Undercoat, but certainly will affect the life of the wax or sealant top coat.
Perhaps not really how to wash, but this is a good example of a professional undertaking paint protection to then be followed by ceramic coatings. `Looking forward to getting him back!
I have a Zymol sampler case at home - given to me by Nelda (formerly of this parish) - with three of their best wax glazes inside, Atlantique, Vintage and Destiny. I tried Atlantique on my black Roadster a few years back and I should try it again on my new Roadster. It does produce spectacular results. The wax is obscenely expensive - a full sized jar of Atlantique costs about £1400 and Vintage is even more expensive. Destiny is a mere £550 a pot. I think I must have about £1000 worth of polishes in the set. Marketed for the Goodwood set, no doubt.
I’m not so keen on gloss and shine, much prefer a light coating of everyday dust (as per my stainless wires) but I do like to keep my paint is in good condition. Unfortunately gulls have taken up residence on the roof of the building where I often leave the car during the day. ‘Deposits’ seem to cook and causes damage almost instantly on the hot dark surface on a summer’s day. I can’t seem to get them off quick enough so in an attempt to mitigate this I thought that I would give a dual layer graphene ceramic coating a whirl.
I’ll soon have the car looking normal again and fingers crossed any future 'etchings' might be reduced……
Bird poo can be a big problem. On our Golf, which is red, most poo etches into the lacquer within a couple of hours and leaves a lunar surface. It can be eliminated but only with vigorous cutting back which isn't great. I always carry my poo remover kit, and act immediately.
Meguiars seems to be the best performance/cost balance.
I do use Swissvax occasionally and the polish is good but I would defy you to tell the difference from Meguiars.
I tried Bilt Hamber Craig. It was promoted a lot by Practical Classics, and a big advertiser. I still have some on the shelf, but I didn't find it as good as Meguiars.
On my previous Golf I used a different polish on every panel as a test. The water droplets varied slightly, but in terms of shine and longevity, there was no visible difference.
DaveW '05 Red Roadster S1 '16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
Meguiars seems to be the best performance/cost balance.
I think that's fair. My late MiL always used to give me some money to buy 'something nice for the car' at the NEC Classic Show, so I used to buy Swissvax and Dodo Juice stuff (because she liked the smell, especially the mango-flavoured Swissvax) which are excellent, but not massively better than Meguiars but significantly more expensive.
I've not used the Belt Hamber wax, but I'm a massive fan of their All Purpose Cleaner, you can buy it in 5 litres and dilute as required according to what job you're doing.
Tim H. 1986 4/4 VVTi Sport, 2002 LR Defender, 2022 Mini Cooper SE
I'm currently using this Ceramic coating on my new truck, its a lot easier to use that some of the really expensive Graphine products :- https://www.prestigecarcareshop.com...nced?_pos=1&_sid=b6283533d&_ss=r I put the UK distributors website on here, its a US company, its available on Amazon in the US.
Does anyone out in TM world know how to get rid of water spots. My MOG has had a Ceramic covering in the pass. It a same old story. Leave the car down near the beach, it rains and them it drys burning hot under the sun and the rain leaves the spots. On-line it states things like using White vinger etc. Many thanks as always.
Does anyone out in TM world know how to get rid of water spots. My MOG has had a Ceramic covering in the pass. It a same old story. Leave the car down near the beach, it rains and them it drys burning hot under the sun and the rain leaves the spots. On-line it states things like using White vinger etc. Many thanks as always.
wash Citroen/ Pug / Renault with a wet rag and scouring powder in the spring, repeat the following spring.
THAT often?
G
Allegedly France was the european country with the lowest per capita consumption of soap - perfume was the alternative they invented. So the above is hardly a surprise.
Well that's mine done for another 6 months. Detailed wash yesterday, followed by going over it 3 times this morning: firstly with Meguiars liquid polish, second with Swisswax pre-wax medium paint cleaner, then a final coat of Dodo Juice Purple Haze wax.
It'll get another seeing-to before the annual Scotland jaunt, but apart from that it's just rapid detailer for the rest of the year.
Tim H. 1986 4/4 VVTi Sport, 2002 LR Defender, 2022 Mini Cooper SE
I’ve been a long time fan of Meguiars products, personally finding them more effective than Autoglym. I keep my 4/4 clean(ish) but nowhere near to concours. It helps that my 4/4 also has painted wire wheels, so not so obvious if they are a bit grubby. Part of my routine is also to spend some time making sure the leather is clean and well treated, again mainly using Meguiars products.
Meguiars is where quality and price cross over. It's a sweet spot. Autoglym, once a strong contender seem to have lost momentum a few years ago, as did "Mer". Some of the other "names" are patchy in the sense that they do good products, but also some "average" products. The top end, Swissvax and Zymol, have amazing products, but the actual benefits get swallowed up in eye watering prices. So the cost/benefit ratio doesn't match Meguiars.
In other news, my continuing saga of misting sidescreen panels. On my Roadster, three panels mist over in cold weather. The fourth, the drivers side rear never does. Because the perspex is different. This happens in winter in the garage but also on the road in cold weather. They mist both sides, except the one panel which never does. The surface is attracting micro droplets of water. A hairdryer clears it.
I've tried multiple polishes, plastic polish, visor anti-mist, Rain-X, WD40, ACF50, and nothing lasts beyond a couple of days. The best polish, was Swissvax, which actually lasted a bit longer. A few weeks ago, I stumbled on a You Tube video about using Vaseline on ceramic cooker glass. It sounds a bit risky, but vaseline applies like polish, and polishes off with a microfibre, leaving a nice shine. I applied two coats of vaseline to my sidescreen panels and two weeks later they remain clear. Can it be that simple? Presumably vaseline will also protect chromed fittings such as door handles (where fitted). I haven't gone that far yet.
DaveW '05 Red Roadster S1 '16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
Autoglym used to be privately owned, basically a car enthusiast who my neighbour worked for, his passion was quality products for the trade with guarantee of no silicone which is a massive problem in bodyshops
They are now part of the Altro group, who make high spec floor coverings like the vinyl you see in hospitals, I suspect a big group owner will 'value engineer' the ingredients over the years, we've all experienced it in many products, like the post on Autosol a few days ago
Well as a bit of a driver more than polisher I attended a local Morgan club morning at a Detailing co -very quickly realizing how little I knew about the right way to clean my cars, so after a very damp run around country roads last week I armed myself with two buckets and a snow foam gun and set to work, firstly reading this topic from the beginning. Happily after going through the prescribed steps the results are very pleasing -though my back needs straightening again and I am so pleased to have the Morgan centrelock alloys rather than wires-dont think I would have the required patience for them. Now the interior, what leather cleaner is preferred??
I ordered the Meg Ultimate Wash & Wax, which arrived yesterday - I'll be using that to wash all the cars. I also ordered a Meg Ultimate Liquid Wax to try, but apparently it was damaged in transit and has been returned. I WAS going to ask whether any specific preparation was necessary prior to the wax application, but that now seems unnecessary - I'd still be interested in your thoughts, however. Prior to acquiring the Mog, my 'polish' of choice was one first given me by No 1 son, until reading this thread I didn't realise that Meg's 'Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax' was such a well-thought-of manufacturer. Does anyone have any comment on that particular product? My usual method has been to wash / dry, use a wash-leather to complete, allow to dry completely and then use the 'Waterless' product, which has always worked well - I suppose the question now is will the Meg Liquid Wax produce a better outcome?
Over to you guys!
Ben
2014 Roadster 3.7 2016 Audi S-Line Black Edition TT 2018 Mini Cooper (herself's)
Well all those fast detailers and waterless cleaners and waxes are good products but if you think as they claim that they wont scratch your car paintwork ... guess again! so, they're a good option if you wash the car first as Whizjet described. Ceramic coating is by far the best way to go but if your car is not new and you have paint swirls and micro scratching you will need to remove them first as ceramic coating will lock them in to the finish. Now a dealer will charge you a fortune to treat your car to a ceramic coat but... its really easy to apply. It's a two application method but get this... you just wipe on the first product with the applicator sponge, it dries very quickly then you apply the second solution straight on top of the first in the same way. When dry you just buff it up with a micro fibre cloth. Job done! I do most of my cars and the finish is still working fine after ten years. And the cost, well you can get a kit for around £25 on the Bay! Not the £350 to £500 I have seen dealers charge.
If I'm going to spend the time on a proper wax up job, I always clay bar as a prep - you'd be amazed at the embedded dirt it shifts from a just washed car that you think you've got really clean.
Wrap a bit of cellophane around a finger and feel the paint surface pre-prep, clay it and test again ! You won't believe the difference
It is great for drying off the Mohair Hood as well
![[Linked Image]](http://bradley.it/public_images/drive.jpg)
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doesn't find you it can be a rewarding couple of hours.
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![[Linked Image]](https://tm-img.com/images/2022/02/02/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_845.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](https://tm-img.com/images/2022/02/02/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_844.jpg)
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