Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing 98 Plus 8 Leaking oil pan.

Getting ready to drain and remove the oil pan, I've had a drip for the last six months so nows the ideal time for a repair.
Haven't done this before so I'm looking for advice and any tips to share please.

It's fairly straightforward job. Biggest prob lem is getting the car high enough to work under it. Drain as much oil out as you can, it can get a bit messy.

It is now some 10 years since I changed the sump on my 3.9 Plus 8 so my memory isn't fresh. I don't remember any difficulty, just be careful as you remove the sump as the oil pump suction pipe and strainer fits through a window in a baffle plate in the sump, so take time to make sure the strainer is lined up with the window as you lower the sump. On these later engines the recommendation was to use a gasket sealant rather than a physical gasket. There was a warning not to over tighten the sump bolts to avoid distortion. My sump did stay oil tight for a long time, it still doesn't drip, but there is a sign of oil around the surface of the flange at the rear of the sump. Could be a good time to paint the base of the sump while it is off. Check the drain plug boss to make sure there are no cracks in the weld. The sump plug is a low point and if it takes a knock the weld between the boss and sump can crack (best not ask me how I know this).

Mike, same reason I know how to remove the sump.

I do now have two spare sumps, Had first bought one from ebay, which on receipt resembled a colander. I purchased a new one at a fair price, which I fitted. Brazed the one with a crack. Then got a replacement for the colander. I guess the watchword is watch out buying a sump from an off roader, especially if has been off road, they get caked in mud and rust.

Thank you for al your comments and tips, all were duly noted.
Progress has been made, I've got to the point where I'm ready to apply the gasket sealant. I'm using a Permatex product called "The Right Stuff" it comes highly recommended (don't they all) once applied I only have five minutes to torque down the pan.
This is where I'm at a stand still, I've no clear indication on what the torque spec should be. I've looked all over the internet, Gomog and other Morgan chat sites and all I get is conflicting results.
So I'm hoping for clear direction so I can finally get the oil pan job put to bed then I can start on the rear brake cylinder job next.

Not V8 Dave but a possible guide

https://www.mgexp.com/article/mgb/pdf/mgb-torque-settings.pdf

AH! here:

https://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/v8e/torque_wrench_settings/engine/

In my Haynes (Disco) book it's 13 ft lbs for 1995 model year onwards for the 3.9 V8.