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Originally Posted by teknome
Forgot to add, there is an ignition amplifier, screwed onto the bracket that holds the ignition coil, they do get warm, the amplifier uses the bracket as a heat sink, haven't had one fail, but have heard of failures. If fitting a new one there should be some heat conductive grease supplied.


I have had an ignition module fail, BUT when it did the engine would not fire at all , so I don't think it fits these symptoms.

I suspect a poor wiring connection somewhere in the loom, but finding it can be very tricky and time consuming.

I don't think that generic code readers work with the Rover V8 engine (until the introduction of the GEMS system?) as it needed the Rovercom to interrogate the ecu, but my knowledge here is somewhat scant.

I have also had an air mass sensor (technically the air mass sensor measure the mass of air going through it , rather than the volume which is measured by an air flow sensor, but both fulfil the same role) fail, and it gave poor running conditions (so not the same symptoms again) , but would let the engine start. The only way I know to check this is to replace the unit with one that is known to be in good working order.

Good luck


Andy G
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Bad news… this morning, with a cold engine and the battery fully charged, no start.
Next seps, checking the items you guys pointed me to. Thanks again thumbs


sunny
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I know you say the starter motor is turning, is there a spark at the plugs?


Bruce
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Originally Posted by britmog
I know you say the starter motor is turning, is there a spark at the plugs?


I checked this point, this afternoon. Not at the plug, but at the lead, that connects the coil with the distributor cap, which I held against the ground.

Now, something funny happened. The first moment, there was a spark that stopped half a second later, while the starting was still in process. Tried that about ten times, holding the lead against different engine and body parts, to ensure, that I have a good ground. I also tried different gaps, to see how strong the spark was. It worked, up to a distance of about two Centimetres. The spark colour was orange-ish. Is that OK? I don‘t remember the correct colour anymore.

Could that be the symptom of a faulty coil? (the installed one does not look THAT new, as I thought yesterday) Or a faulty ignition?
I just lifted the distribution cap, as there is very little space because of the water hoses around. I did not see any breaker points, just a kind of „cover“. I also suppose, there is an electronic ignition. I may mark and remove all leads, to be able to completely remove the cap and have a closer look.

I also found the connector that connects the Morgan and the Land Rover harnesses, inside the cabin, but was unable to disconnect it, so I better stopped.

The problem appeared progressively, over a period of about two or three weeks. Could that indicate a component that slowly brakes down? What irritates me, that, when it ran, the engine ran so smoothly. Up to the last moment.


sunny
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Ivo...….you might try asking Keith at Brands Hatch Morgan, if you can get hold of him, not sure if they are open just now.


DaveW
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Ivo Keith is answering technical queries on the normal email address - BHM they adopted this method to help customers once lockdown appeared.


2009 4/4 Sport Henrietta
1999 Indigo Blue +8
2009 4/4 Sport Green prev
1993 Con Green +8 prev





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Couple of quick points, earth's have been mentioned. The main one on the chassis by the battery take this off be clean it. This will cause all manner of strange problems. You had spark but is the fuel pump running? Turn ignition on it should buzz for a few seconds before you crank it over. But if these are ok, amplifier is likely cause , breaking down gradually. I have seen a few over the years.

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Thanks, Dave and Richard thumbs

I just made an other test: Connecting a test light to the positive and negative pole of the ignition coil. When doing that and turning the engine, the light must constantly fluctuate. But it does not. Is flashes once and stays dark afterwards. (Analog to the „spark test“, mentioned in my previous post.)

So, i suppose, it‘s the ignition and I hope, that it‘s only the parts inside the distributor and not the ECU.

A question, aside of my starting problem… on my (hotwire) car, are the ignition and injection systems independent, or does the ECU control both?


sunny
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Originally Posted by M119
Couple of quick points, earth's have been mentioned. The main one on the chassis by the battery take this off be clean it. This will cause all manner of strange problems. You had spark but is the fuel pump running? Turn ignition on it should buzz for a few seconds before you crank it over. But if these are ok, amplifier is likely cause , breaking down gradually. I have seen a few over the years.



The fuel pump is running. But I had only one spark, per starting attempt. To my understanding and if I remember well, the spark must be continuous, as long as the engine turns.


sunny
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How long is the fuell in your fuelltank ? It happened that we had to remove fuell. (Fuell longer than 1 month in the car )

Stefan

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