Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Fitting BRB, King pin Oiler Bolt Problem

We manufacture and sell both steering bearing kits and steering damper kits

We would always remove the damper blades when fitting the bearings

Thanks Simon. So you're suggestion at this point is removing the dampers entirely. I'm debating that vs. putting it atop the steering bearing. I see little downside to that.

Has anyone fitted Rutherford components and used steering bearings? Did you get rid of your dampers, and how did that work out? Anyone running both bearings and dampers? If so, damper above bearing or below?

I’ve been manufacturing the steering bearings and dampers for over a decade, and working on Morgan’s for nearly quarter of a century

Take the damper blades off and just fit the bearings
Run about 1/8 “ toe in, and ensure all your track rod ends and steeping box are in perfect condition
Any play exacerbates the potential for wheel wobble

My own view (FWIW ) with regard to steering being too light is the need for a quicker rack. Fitting a steering damper in an attempt to correct wheel wobble by generally stiffening up steering, having perhaps fitted bearings to replace damper blades on an earlier model, seems counter-productive. Better the wobble is corrected at source.

Given the price of quick racks have just fitted a smaller diameter steering wheel which helps, and I still have the option of fitting a switch to turn off electric steering.

No steering rack or electric steering on these old girls.

True, which is where Simon's comments apply

Simon, I think now I understand the issue- theory that wobble resulted from coupling of spring torsion to the stub axel. Factory way of uncoupling was bronze plate fixed as a damper. Other approach is a roller bearing. I’ve reassembled with both but both really makes little sense. I’ll take off the dampers.

When you say make sure the ends of my track rods are in perfect condition, what do you mean by that - I have the end that connects to the steering pitman arm and the ends for the stub axels- just make sure they’re clean, true with fresh grease boots and castle nuts put on just right?

I have the period cam gear steering box and honestly haven’t really considered what’s inside- has worked perfectly the entire time I’ve had it (7 yrs). Anything I should do to ensure it’s not part of a potential wobble problem once I’m sporting only bearings?

The track rod ends are ball joints with similar on the ends of the steering arm. When there is the slightest wear in any one causing visible play they need replacing. The castellated nuts/split pins securing them just ensure security and are not a means of adjustment. The worm and peg steering box usually has an adjustment to reduce play to a minimum.

Any such play in the steering system as a whole and felt at the steering wheel, can give rise to wheel wobble. This is exacerbated by unbalanced wheels and incorrect steering geometry so those items need to be checked as well if you experience wobble.

Great info, thanks. I’m going to check the adjustment on my Cam Gears steering box, make sure the peg is properly dialed down to achieve that ‘12 inch pounds’ of torque to move past the center point with pitman arm disconnected. I’ll take a good look at my track rod ends and go accordingly.

I think much of this current frustration I feel many of you can identify with (and I have nobody to blame but myself due to my naïveté/ignorance as I go through this learning process)- I’ve finally crested the Everest peak of completely stripping the front end, rebuilding my C40 like new, narrow pulley conversion, rebuilt water pump, new timing chain/tensioner, flushed and refinished radiator, and fitting a new crosshead, and I FINALLY get the kingpins back on - and now I’ve got to take them off again, and take the disk mount plate off of the stub axles to get the bronze plates off. Oh joy. But it’s been a few weeks where I’ve come to accept this is what I must do in order to move forward. Nobody twisted my arm to do this.

Hopefully once I’m running steering bearings I don’t regret it and wish to go back. I don’t think I will but have read enough from others to know it’s a possibility. But we shall see. My car, had zero shakes before, so I’ll knock wood and pray to St. Malvern for it to stay that way.

The only ray of sunshine is that you have recently had it all apart so you shouldn't be in for a bout of knuckle-rash and swearing due to rusted and rounded nuts and bolts !

K