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Joined: Dec 2008
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DaveW Offline OP
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This is my first real go at wrapping. I'll cover the reasons why at the end.

I went to my usual place, Agriemach, and bought 25 feet of 2" wide "Titanium" wrap. It's not titanium, that's just the name.

25 feet is just enough for the primaries on the AR manifold.

Ideally you start at the bottom and wrap upwards so the joins face down, but I didn't want ties at the top, and to be honest it's easier wrapping from the top.

I also got some stainless tie wraps, like cable ties, but I just couldn't get them tight enough, so I uses stainless Jubilee clips. Not ideal, but there you go.

"Before"

[Linked Image]

"After"

[Linked Image]

The wrap ends just where the pipes go into two from four and pass through the inner wing panel.

[Linked Image]

I made up a single heat shield for this using the standard woven mat sold by Agriemach, and a piece of nimonic alloy from my stock. This involved measure cardboard template, cut, fit, cut, fit etc until I could transfer the template to the alloy, then more cut, fit, cut, fit. When 95% ready, I fitted with cable ties, and tested the stainless wraps, but they were nowhere near tight enough. So once again I used a Jubilee clip.

[Linked Image]

The small shield visible here is another piece of nimonic alloy, which is very easy to work, far better than stainless steel. It cuts and drills easily, and bends well.

[Linked Image]

Mudflap replaced. This was reshaped when I fitted the new manifold and is backed with heat resistant weave.

[Linked Image]

Quite a bit of smoke on initial start up, which eventually cleared.

[Linked Image]

There were some striking changes. The engine was slower to warm up fully than normal. The under bonnet temperature was significantly cooler, and the insulated cold air feed was also significantly cooler.

Because the original cold air feed over the radiator header tank is now such a tight squeeze, I have replaced it with a short piece of angled hose.

[Linked Image]

So to sum up, the emissions problem at the Mot were due to the tick-over pulsing when the cooling fan cut in.

Now I have a higher capacity radiator, a cooler engine bay and a twice wrapped cat. The combination of these factors now gives a rock steady tick-over about 700rpm.........at 101c.

[Linked Image]

thumbs



Last edited by DaveW; 21/08/20 03:19 PM.

DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Well done Dave. would you say then you need 50 ft to do the Roadster pipes?


JohnV6
2022 CX Plus Four
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DaveW Offline OP
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Yes John, although you might not need the full length.

The only fiddle is the when cut, it frays like raffia, so it can be frustrating at times.


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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I keep wondering whether to do it. But as you know the heat from a Roadster engine is a thing of wonder in the summer.


JohnV6
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DaveW Offline OP
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I lined the bulkhead both sides (under the bonnet) with Reflect a Cool and we don't seem to get a lot of heat sink.


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
Joined: Nov 2015
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Just barreling along
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Looks very neat Dave, if you want some nice stainless steel lockwire to run a band around the top of each header, give me a shout


Jon M
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DaveW Offline OP
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Thanks Jon. Let's see how it goes!


DaveW
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'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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B
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B
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Dave, I used stainless lock wire when I wrapped my +8 far better than the stainless tie wraps.

David Byrne

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Many thanks for sharing Dave

Joined: Mar 2015
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Ceramic coating is more expensive but better in the long run i would think , as you do not have the problems associated with wrapping .
There is a company in Yorkshire who do a 4 branch exhaust for £250 .there is even a choice of colours .


Jimmy
2015 4/4 Sport Green
2018 VW Tiguan
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