Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Narrow pulley conversion

Hi all,

I need to take off the pulleys in prep of receiving my narrow pulley kit in the next few weeks.

I assume I start by taking off nuts before loosening the current fan belt. The crank pulley on my TR4A engine has this thin metal bracket holding it in position. Is this something I simply bend back to allow the crank nut to be turned? Does it bend right back or does it get replaced each time?

Is the crank nut a job for an impact wrench? If so, should I bite the bullet and invest in a compressed air system or for limited use pick up an electric impact wrench? I have a 1-7/16 AF impact socket and regular socket on the way.

Any advice appreciated, a search of here, gomog, didn’t turn up much. Sone stuff on the triumph forums but not much.

Cheers

Nelson
‘66 plus 4

If getting an impact wrench look at the torque they produce.
Air versions would need a decent compressor. Not cheap!
Electric have a wide variation of torque outputs. They are handy for heavier screwing jobs too (big screws into wood/masonry).
I’d go for electric unless you NEED a good compressor for other things! I have a cheapish hobby compressor for light duty use (tyre inflation, some light duty spraying) and a basic DeWalt impact driver bought on an offer. It drives screws really well but not yet tried on bolts with sockets.

The 'metal bracket' you describe sounds like a locking tab washer ... the 'tab' is bent back flat from the nut to allow it to be loosened ..... purists would say to replace it every time but I've re-bent them numerous times in other applications .... check what it looks like at the bend and see if it looks like maybe this is its first life and it doesn't look weak and fatigued at the bend .... alternatively it may be able to be fitted in an alternative position so you can bend a fresh bit (or, if reachable, bend up at another flat once the nut's tight thereby using a fresh bit) depends on the design of the washer ..... as for the impact driver.... I tend not to use them on nuts on shafts disappearing into engines unless I'm sure what's going on in there ... there are horror stories of the vibration loosening things internally ... possibly unlikely, but I'd start with a manual spanner and work up to the heavy stuff if it proves un-cooperative (keep the cutting torch and dynamite in reserve for when it really gets you annoyed🙂.)

I don't know that engine in particular .... the above are just general observations from working on older engines of various types over the years.

K

I would remove the fan belt by loosening the generator off first. Using an old screw driver, bend back the tab washer. Engage first gear and apply hand brake. Fit socket, maybe tap it firmly on to make sure tab washer is bent back as flat as possible, and undo. if necessary, slide a length of steel tubing over the handle of your tool for extra leverage. For the cost of a tab washer, I would fit new but if not available, K’s advice above would be ok.

Thanks! It is a tab washer. I’ll check if I can get a spare from the Ecklers. The narrow pulley bit, along with a water pump rebuild and new timing chain and tensioner are all part of my ‘now that I have my cross head out, exposure to some things is amazing, what else should I do’ phase.

Still debating what to do with old radiator. Have zero issues with it, but is it smart to put it back? The $$(££) keep adding up! On that note the porter cable corded impact wrench is only like $70 which I think may be a good entry into the impact wrench game.

Our 1956 plus 4 with the TR engine has had a number of good worthwhile upgrades


Narrow belt conversion
Alternator conversion
High flow water pump
Tuned exhaust manifold and wrapped with lava rock wrap (keeps under bonnet temps down)
Spin on oil filter
Heat insulated fuel lines (stops vapour lock in hot weather)
Heat sheild betwen exhaust and carbs (Prevents vapour lock increases performance)
A Si Fab Aluminium rad with high flow elec fan
High port later TR4 head for better gas flow

IMG_6688 by Robert & Ali Davies, on Flickr

and here i'm checking for sticking valves and general initial turn over. with plugs removed...

MOV_0348 by Robert & Ali Davies, on Flickr

Rob that car is simply beautiful.

What do people use for removing pulleys?

Is there one really good universal puller out there that can handle the dynamo, crank and water pump? Or do I need a few?

Can't ever remember using one to remove any of the pullies on my TR4 engined Plus.

Probably not needed

Arwyn

So you just gently tap them off with a hammer?

There are pullers available, mine just knocked off with a tap in a copper mallet put some plus gas or similar on to soak if needed.