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1989 Morgan Plus 4 in Ontario, Canada
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Talk Morgan Sage
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I wouldn't be happy with that. I'd stick a chunk of rubber hose over the brake pipe to stop the rubbing.


"Y mae dafad ddu ym mhob praidd"
1972 4/4, 1981 MGBGT, 1984 FLHT1340, 1980 XLH1000, 1990 ZX10
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Tricky Dicky
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They definitely need teasing away and a bit of Spiwrap, did you check the U bolts were tight.


2009 4/4 Sport Henrietta
1999 Indigo Blue +8
2009 4/4 Sport Green prev
1993 Con Green +8 prev





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As said wrap them in old rubber hose. They shouldn't rub.


JohnV6
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Mine is the same, looks like this weekend I will be wrapping some silicone rubber or similar over the pipe.




[Linked Image]


Craig Jezz


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yes. The U-Bolts were very tight.


Andy
2014 Morgan Plus 4
VW T6.1 campervan
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C
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Originally Posted by DaveW
Originally Posted by +8Rich
I have had tell tale marks on the board covering the axle if I have arrived at a bump in the road a bit too quickly in my car.
Might be worth a quick check of the integrity of the ubolts on the springs.



If Andy has a tool tray Richard, the diff might be punching a hole in it!



If the diff punches the tool tray try to turn it 180°, it is not symetric and the place of the jack can touch the diff. I have to do it.


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Tricky Dicky
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Originally Posted by CBY
Originally Posted by DaveW
Originally Posted by +8Rich
I have had tell tale marks on the board covering the axle if I have arrived at a bump in the road a bit too quickly in my car.
Might be worth a quick check of the integrity of the ubolts on the springs.



If Andy has a tool tray Richard, the diff might be punching a hole in it!



If the diff punches the tool tray try to turn it 180°, it is not symetric and the place of the jack can touch the diff. I have to do it.


That's a useful tip CBY..


2009 4/4 Sport Henrietta
1999 Indigo Blue +8
2009 4/4 Sport Green prev
1993 Con Green +8 prev





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There are numerous sources of knocking noises in a Morgan. I also struggled with this on my Plus 4 (2018). The noise always occurred when the rear axle was compressed. The sound was like two hard objects hitting each other. Even small bumps in the road were often enough to cause this.

One source was the drive shaft hitting the tunnel:
[Linked Image]

As a result, the tunnel was set a little higher (about 1/2 inch).
This reduced the problem a bit but did not solve it completely.

Since I had panhard rods, anti tramp bars and adjustable shock absorbers fitted, the problem has never recurred. As a side effect, the road holding has improved considerably, especially in bumpy curves.
These changes were all done at the same time. So I can't say which one was the actual solution.

Since I have the Sport version, there is no tool tray (just a flat board). In this board I fixed an eyelet for securing our dog. Although this screw was less than 10 mm high, the differential hit it. This screw was then exchanged for a carriage bolt (with a lens head). So this area seems to be very tight.

Last edited by Michael P; 25/03/21 12:51 PM.

Michael
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No harm in extra protection for the brake pipe but not really as bad as it might appear as it moves in unison with the axle at all times, so rubbing is minimal.


Doug
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I don’t know if it’s just a feature on my car but the fuel tank is not secured. The wooden decking that the fuel tank is bolted to appears only to be fixed by two bolts towards the front of the decking. The rear of the decking just sits on the chassis under gravity. If you push as per the pic you can lift the decking and tank. It can produce a clunk like the jack is loose in my wooden tool tray. I must get around to securing it....

[Linked Image]


Last edited by Rog; 26/03/21 04:09 PM.

Roger
2011 Plus 4
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