Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Front suspension

You don't need to compress the main spring. I used a motorbike spring compressor the first time I did this, and it didn't help.

Some people just use a jack under the kingpin, but although slower, I prefer long studding.

Hi Leroy

No, your correct. Totally possible with studding and some nuts and washers however it’s much easier with Cain’s spring compressor (or top bolt compressor which is method I used). It’s only time and ease so if your not in a rush and have a ratchet spanner for the studding nuts or a nice cuppa and the radio on it’s simple enough.

Have fun.

Colin

Thanks guys, will get some bearings ordered and give it a go. I take it there's no issue with bearings flying all over the place when the hub is removed? There's no wheel bearing issue at the moment, but is it wise to replace them whilst the hub is off? My Roadster has done 44k so they might be the original ones.

Bearings can cover enormous miles if correctly adjusted and greased. I would advise getting a pair of inner seals (Cain has them) and to wash out both inner races and the hub and repack everything with fresh grease. When clean you can inspect the roller surfaces but I doubt you will find a problem, if you do make sure you refit quality bearings, again Cain has stock. Wolf Performance.

BR
Colin

The only thing to watch is that the main spring doesn't leap at you if there is any compression left in it as you pull the top away from the crosshead. A thick towel over the top should protect the wing. I haven't had a problem with this, but I treat compressed springs with a lot of respect.

Years ago I had a broken Tie Rod on my +8 the rod snapped about a third of the way up from the bottom. Bought a length of steel threaded bar from local DIY Store for a few Dollars cut it to size and installed applying enough tension till tight but not over tight, over 40,000 miles later still going strong.

When I did my tie rod, I followed the instructions on go-mog with an inner and outer support below the crosshead and was quite surprised as to how much tightening it needed to get simultaneous lift off. Without that procedure, I would never have tensioned it that much.

I found a small scissor jack with a piece of wood to securely locate under lower kingpin nut provided a quick and safe means of removing compression in springs. Once stub axle was resting on lower cross tube, very little residual compression in main spring, on my Roadster at least. I did have an old blanket over it just in case, but a gentle tug had it unseated.

Rebuilding suspension though I used studs to compress springs back into place in a more controlled manner.

It's something that I've mulled over in my mind whether to do it myself or pay a fortune for the professionals to do. But after reading Dave Ws guide and various other websites, I understand how things work, so have the confidence to do it myself. Gonna opt for mulfab bearings with new shorter main springs, as the blue paint is peeling a bit on the original ones, so may as well replace them at the same time. Thanks again for your comments

Interesting to read about the compression in the top spring. I made my own spring compressor as despite using studding on the lower springs the upper springs still had lots of compression, no way could I have reinserted them without the compressor. I’d estimate at least 20mm on the top spring with the lower spring completely removed.