Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Trying to start it for the first time (in 15 years

Agreed - just as assuming that they've not done all the proper start up procedures before trying to get her running.

One way to check a spark is to crank the engine over with a spare plug held against the block (they were even doing this on a lovely old Delahaye at Brooklands yesterday) and to check fuel by disconnecting the pipe from the carb and turning the engine over to see if it's pumping through (into a sutiable container obviously). I'm sure there are other ways, but those are some of the checks I'd do if an engine wasn't starting.

Just done exactly that while recommisioning my old GL1000 which wouldn't start - after soaking the bores ( I use ATF), static setting the timing, fitting new belts, checking valves gaps and turning the engine repeatedly to ensure everything was set up OK. Turned out I had a duff coil.....

However, all is moot and speculative - what we do know for sure is the OP is asking about coil/distributor issues.

Thank you for the great feedback , I feel very fortunate that I'm able to get so much help

The good news is that we did at least oil the bores ! - so there's hope for me yet ...

I was allways in old MINIs.

If you have checked the fuel (complete), the lines, the pump, the carb... don‘t forget about Mr. Lucas.

In 15 years a lot of connectors don‘t real connect. Everywhere.

Greets René

That is good news! Good luck on the next step - we need more of these Crossflows on the forum

Simple basic procedure:
1/ Remove all plugs and turn the engine on the starter until you get oil pressure / the oil light goes out.
2/ put 1 plug in its plug cp but not screwed into the engine. Again turn the starter with the engine ignition switched on and the plug body ( the metal threaded bit) lying onthe engine block. Do you get a spark - you should do so. If not, problem 1
3/ If you get a spark insert all plugs and turn engine over with choke out. No start? Remove a plug to see if it is wet with fuel. If not, then fuel problem.
4/ If fuel problem then open up carb flat chamber - is there fuel there? If not then you trace the feed from the tank ( I assume you have fuel in the tank ) via the pump and the carb valve.

Engines are pretty simple in principle.Dont think of complications like chaging ignition systems until you have checked the basics and isolated the fault.

I tend to use a spare plug - rather than running an engine with an exposed bore and the possibiltiy of igniting any fuel coming out of the open plug hole. May be me just being over cautious.

Over cautious TBM... Hmm..? I have memories as a stupid yoof, of being usked to climb under the bonnet of a Jensen CV8 that had lain unused for many a year, it`s carb pump jet leather seals having dried up, the instruction being when I crank the engine you pour some petrol down the throat of the four barrel carb... Which I duly did... explosion and flames and me hitting my head and scratching myself on everything while trying to make a fast exit minus eyebrows and fringe.... I never did that again..

Looks like I have a resolution to my quest.

Audrey of the Morgan Sports Car Club of No. California put me in touch with a very helpful Greg Solow of the Engine Room in Santa Cruz who gave me a lot of great advice and, in tern, connected me to DaveBean.com where I spoke to Ken who seems to have all the stuff I need to proceed. So the adventure continues.and what a great community this is. Makes me even more pleased I'm part of it.

I spoke a little too soon - Dave Bean have a 12v starter coil which doesn't require a ballast resistor - however, I'm clueless to how to connect the wires that were previously connected to the ballast resistor - I'm assuming that I can just connect them directly to bypass the ballast resistor - but, referring to a previous post on this thread - you know what they say about assuming.
I'm the first to admit I'm new to all this so your continued dumbing down is much appreciated

Yep, just bypass the ballast resistor so you have a direct 12V to the coil.

There'll be a wire that goes to the resistor which will be the 12V feed, and a wire that goes from the resistor to the coil. The wire to the coil will be piggybacked with a wire from the starter solenoid.

Remove the wire from resistor to coil (and tape up - it will be live when your tunr the starter). Then take the 12V feed to the resistor and connect direct to the non ballast coil.