Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Remove wire wheels

My 4/4 mog is 25 years old and 4k miles.. The rear brakes have ceased while standing and I wish to remove the wires to attend to the brakes. Have applied penetrating oil for a few weeks now but I am unable to remove any wheels with the standard 70mm ring spanner. There is little room to swing a hammer due to the wheel arch and I want to avoid damage. If the spanner is to be extended then it will also require an offset. Any suggestions please for a modest priced solution?

The standard spanner (assuming you have the one supplied with the car) is designed to be hit with a hammer. It is possible to do this without hitting the wheel arch on a 4/4 (I have done this many times). My car came with a suitable hammer. You can purchase sockets that enable the use of a 3/4” square drive breaker bar and another socket - I cannot find a link for one at present.

This thread has more on the topic - Wire Wheel Nut Tool Thread

Ken, my old 4/4 was 1999 so it's probably the same set up as yours.

The spanner is meant to be hammered and there is enough room to swing a lead or copper mallet if you're careful.

When I took mine off for the first time, I was surprised how hard I had to hit the spanner and how many times to loosen the nut but eventually it did succumb.

Don't forget the nuts are handed so check the direction.

There comes a time when you put the wheels back, and your inevitable question will be: how tight should the nuts be? I prefer to hand tighten well with the spanner, then give three or four medium force blows with the hammer. They should be tight, but not overtight. They should not be difficult to losen, and it is to remembered that to a certain degree, they are self tightening. So no reason to hammer till your face turns blue. And remember to apply grease to the threads and to all other metal surfaces that are in contact. Most likely the wheels on your car are over-tightened and with little or no remaining grease. But you will get them off eventually, hammering away or using a breaker bar. It is a good idea to use working gloves. Better grip on the hammer and your hands are protected.

Or give Lionel a call and buy one of these

When the spinner has become too tight to remove easily with one of Lionel’s widgets and a breaker bar, I warm the spinner slightly with a hot air gun on its low setting. The spinner then comes off with very little effort. I carry the widget and breaker bar in the car behind the rear seats.
Have only used the hammer method a couple of times as I felt there was far too much chance of hitting the wheel arch.

Doug J

Plus 4 4 seater 2011

From bitter experience it's better to use a big hammer gently than thrash at something with a small one .... much less chance of collateral damage 🙂


K

If you do use a mallet, make sure it’s a lead mallet as opposed to a copper one which work hardens. this means a greater chance of glancing lows on the spinner causing damage.

I have Lionel's socket for my wheel nuts with a 750 mm breaker bar. That works well if you loosen them regularly. I find the front passenger side though needs a bit more umph. I use a spanner from P Mulberry that has an angle so it comes out of the wheel well fixed to a length of bar c 2m using exhaust clamps. The bar is a Thule roof rack bar.

Like you I find banging around with a big hammer near the wings daunting.

If you are based in Suffolk you are welcome to borrow it.

The photo is the Mk1 version using large jubilee clips.

Warming should do it