|
Forums34
Topics48,341
Posts812,981
Members9,208
| |
Most Online1,046
Aug 24th, 2023
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 523
Talk Morgan Regular
|
Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 523 |
If anyone needs a spare cable, I have an unused one that I no longer need.....
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,952 Likes: 41
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
|
|
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,952 Likes: 41 |
Worst bit was getting the clevis pin in at the front due to tight access, and dropped it a few times into the chassis crossmember. Nice work but did you have to lift the tunnel or is there a clever way of accessing the clevis pin from below? My outer is fractured and taped up so I guess I will be doing this at some point. Never tried it from below as I haven’t got a lift and think the cross member may be in the way. Yes removed seats, prop shaft tunnel, gear knob, brake lever knob, leather from gearbox tunnel and propped gearbox tunnel up with wood block. (difficult to move at first until I realised that, as well as screws, it was stuck on the inside with a double sided sticky seal. Also could not remove completely as it has a couple of drain tubes running through the top.) Just enough room to get a hand in. As well as the clevis pin, you also have to undo the locknut that holds the front end of the cable in place. Inside the prop tunnel were two plastic cable clamps and the seat belt warning wiring was also cable tied to the brake cable. Watch out for sharp edges everywhere! Had a crawl underneath today for routine servicing and whilst there, I can see in fact, that the clevis pin is easily accessible from underneath. Also easy access to lube the brake lever pivots. So that looks like the best way to do it, though if you haven’t got a lift, it’s a bit of a squeeze on your back even with axle stands at full height.
Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon
1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
1958 Triton 650
1992 Triumph Trophy 900
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,639 Likes: 20
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
|
|
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,639 Likes: 20 |
Thanks for the feedback Doug. Looking at Gordon’s very useful pics I guess the front locknut and the p’clips still might be show stoppers for doing it from below.
Roger
2011 Plus 4
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,952 Likes: 41
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
|
|
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,952 Likes: 41 |
Thanks for the feedback Doug. Looking at Gordon’s very useful pics I guess the front locknut and the p’clips still might be show stoppers for doing it from below. Yes, you cannot avoid doing most of the work from above. I have since found that it would be possible to use one of those flexible spring loaded grabs (as from Proper Job shop). By inserting the head of the pin in the claws with the pin at right angles to the tool shaft, it should be easy.
Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon
1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
1958 Triton 650
1992 Triumph Trophy 900
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,952 Likes: 41
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
|
|
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,952 Likes: 41 |
Thanks for the feedback Doug. Looking at Gordon’s very useful pics I guess the front locknut and the p’clips still might be show stoppers for doing it from below. A friend replaced his cable today with the help of a local friendly mechanic. To replace the clevis pin and split pin at the handbrake end, rather than struggle from above or crawl underneath, they worked from above by simply removing the pivot pin from the handbrake lever itself. This allowed easy access to the lower part of the lever where the clevis pin is situated. Wish I had thought of that when I did mine!
Last edited by Deejay; 23/06/22 08:49 PM. Reason: clearer instructions
Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon
1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
1958 Triton 650
1992 Triumph Trophy 900
|
|
|
|
|
