Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Corrosion Running Board Strips and Fixings

Rog, if you are careful you can countersink the channel a little deeper to make sure the new fixings don't stand proud & give the nasty looking bulges in the rubber

Yes that may help, good point.

Mine must have left the factory like it

Careful choice of replacement screw heads help as well. I think I used 3mm stainless low profile slotted pan head with slightly larger spreader washers underneath, and screw slots in line with strips so as to not interfere with rubber. Plenty of lubricant on latter when re-fitting as well.

As an aside one wing was later removed and stripped for warranty respray and the painter joked about my OCD re strip fixings. I had to explain

The conversation up to this point is about attaching the running board strips. My problem is the rubber keeps coming out the the strips. How do you secure the rubber so it doesn't come out of the strips. I carry a wooden tongue depressor with me to put the rubber back in the strip. I think the rubber comes out every time I get out of the car.

Really? How can that happen - if they are not touched by anything. Of course originally they are meant to be trodden on, but surley nobody does that? Could you explain a little more?

I removed my rubbers years ago whilst the paint was undamaged and unmarked. Any attachments like that will of course result in corrosion, just like side lights on the front wings, bonnet straps, driving lamps "nailed" on the front of the plus 4 s/s. I installed small s/s button head bolts with nylon washers each side and nyloc nuts in the holes so there's a row of polished s/s bolt heads along each wing, I'm quite happy that it looks "a la mode", and there's no damage to the wings.

Nylon screw insulators with stainless screws could be the solution.
https://docs.rs-online.com/69ca/0900766b816b0742.pdf page 53

But why not nylon screws?

Indeed, might be the best solutoin. Only concern is wether they melt with the heat from the silencer(s) under the running board. I think not, however. Then you have PEEK screws, that have a melting point of 180 degrees C. An M3 countersu nylonnk should do. Inspected mine yesterday, SS screws with anti-coorosive paste. No visible corrosion after fitting them half a year ago. But if corrosion eventually appears, PEEK or nylon screws with nylon washers and then Nylocks underneath. I hav not located M3 nylon nuts so far, guess SS Nylock and nylon washer is ok. That will be the next (and hopefully final) step.

My foot sometimes will not make it over the rubber when I get out. It pulls the rubber out of the metal. I carry a wooden tongue depressor with me to reinstall the rubber into the metal strip. Not so much of a problem as it is an inconvenience. Does anyone glue the rubber into the metal strip?

I would also be tempted if I had to do the job again, to fit nylon screws and nuts plus washers if needed. The natural stiffness of nylon threads means that locking nuts likely wouldn't be needed. Available down to 2mm below. I agree that heat wouldn't be an issue here either.