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Originally Posted by Image
Colin ..... my racer uses Triumph GT6 discs ..... but they're 'skimmed' from 13mm thick to 7mm .... brake man was slightly taken aback to be asked to do that ... and at the bags of swarf chippings that came off .... then once they're drilled they're suitably light ๐Ÿ™‚ .... his machine skims both faces simultaneously, which he claims is the way to go for trueness.

When I lived in the States I was talking to an old engine guy who reckoned that the V8 blocks that Chevy used on their racers were left in the yard to rust as bare castings for a year .... then pulled in and machined ... all to de-stress the castings for maximum strength.

K


There is a story of probably the most famous engine builder around asking his male staff to โ€˜relieveโ€™ themselves on blocks left outside to weather before machining ;-)

BR
Colin

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/engine-myth-urinating-on-cylinder-block-improves-durability/

Last edited by Spanner Juggler; 24/12/21 06:40 PM. Reason: Link added

BR Colin
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TBM .... the received wisdom is that drilling allows the gasses produced by the pads under heavy braking to dissipate, breaks up the water film on the disc surface in the wet, gives better initial bite, 'self-cleans' the pad surface, helps cool the disc ...... and they look cool ๐Ÿ™‚

On the road, my bike discs are drilled but my road car one's aren't.

Never done a back to back comparison as the racer has always had drilled discs.

K

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I remember reading a long time ago that BMW used very old and high mileage blocks to make the BMW F1 turbo engine, their reasoning is that the blocks were de-stressed.
There is a procedure that you should go through when bedding in new discs,

David Byrne

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Originally Posted by Image
TBM .... the received wisdom is that drilling allows the gasses produced by the pads under heavy braking to dissipate, breaks up the water film on the disc surface in the wet, gives better initial bite, 'self-cleans' the pad surface, helps cool the disc ...... and they look cool ๐Ÿ™‚

On the road, my bike discs are drilled but my road car one's aren't.

Never done a back to back comparison as the racer has always had drilled discs.

K


There's a bloke who drills GL1000 discs (he does several patterns) - I wondered if it was worth getting the Mog ones done. As I've got disc wheels you'd never see them, but I'd know they looked cool which is more important smile


"Y mae dafad ddu ym mhob praidd"
1972 4/4, 1981 MGBGT, 1984 FLHT1340, 1980 XLH1000, 1990 ZX10
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Originally Posted by TBM
Originally Posted by Image
TBM .... the received wisdom is that drilling allows the gasses produced by the pads under heavy braking to dissipate, breaks up the water film on the disc surface in the wet, gives better initial bite, 'self-cleans' the pad surface, helps cool the disc ...... and they look cool ๐Ÿ™‚

On the road, my bike discs are drilled but my road car one's aren't.

Never done a back to back comparison as the racer has always had drilled discs.

K


There's a bloke who drills GL1000 discs (he does several patterns) - I wondered if it was worth getting the Mog ones done. As I've got disc wheels you'd never see them, but I'd know they looked cool which is more important smile


Fosseway Seems reasonable price for slotted and drilled discs.


"Y mae dafad ddu ym mhob praidd"
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Some truth in that ... but it's not quite as black and white as he indicates

I never bother to drill my road car's discs (partly cos I drive them til they drop ) ..... I have seen cracking on drilled discs .... but then again I've seen cracking on solid discs too .... for my race car, being a hillclimb car it doesn't cover the mileage, or run the brakes particuarly hot ... I'm more interested in initial bite especially into the first corner ๐Ÿ˜ฎ ... and consistency .... I have no complaints on either score with the drilled discs. I'll certainly look at slotting the discs next time round .... the only reason I didn't after my last accident (which smashed a disc along with a lot else!!) Was that I needed the replacements in short order and my local guy doesn't do slotting.

Like much else to do with 'performance' we all have opinions and swear by our favourites but never have the spare time or cash to do our own like for like destruction testing (as I guess the guy above doesn't) ..... what seems to work for you makes you feel at ease when you strap yourself in .... and that calmness is probably worth more tenths than whether your discs have holes in or not ๐Ÿ˜

K

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Originally Posted by Spanner Juggler
Hi Paul

I am no metallurgist but I suspect there is little that we as motorists can do apart from gently breaking them in (no pun intended) then increasing gradually the heat cycle during use.

What Peter Mulberry was talking about is the old school manufacturing method where castings would be left to weather before machining, cylinder blocks and brake disc rotors being examples. Todayโ€™s speed up world they are cast in the morning, machined at lunchtime and fitted in the afternoon kind of thing, JIT Manufacturing has a lot to answer for ;-).

Thing is if your new discs do show signs of a warp they can be reground and they will be fine. Simon (SiFab) or Cain (Wolf) would probably know of a good contact for disc grinding. Peter M who is retired arranged for a few sets to be ground for me but these were sold to Cain when he bought my king pin business and stock of spares.

BR
Colin


Melvyn Rutter does on the car brake skims.


Keith
2013 narrow bodied + 4 Ruby.
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