Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Complex EFi issue

Thanks chaps. One of my first stamps was to spray contact cleaner on the MAF and Stepper connections. I haven’t cleaned the ECU plug yet as I’m waiting for the resistor to arrive so I can solider it into the loom before reconnecting the ecu. Don’t really want to disturb this big plug more than is necessary.

No harm in cleaning the MAF contacts again though.

It has the signs of a duff connection somewhere as it’s inconsistent.

Maybe I just jiggled something inside the sensor that resolved it, I didn't take the sensor apart.
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What did you set the timing arm idle to ? Mines at 4 degrees advance with an idle of 600 (plus 100 by stepper)[/quote]

First I found true TDC it was off by about 5 degrees, then with vacuum advance disconnected set timing at 8 degree BTDC rising to 28 BTDC at 4000 rpm (that is the important measurement). Also check the fuel pressure with the vacuum line removed from the regulator it should be 36-38 psi, reconnect the vacuum line and the pressure should drop to 28-30 psi.

I should have added that the above was before I installed a Tornado Chip with Bosch Injectors and adjustable fuel regulator which changes the settings and requires re-tuning. The ECU controls the idle and so does not need adjusting as long as the base idle is correct which should be 525rpm on standard engines with the idle bypass hose disconnected and blocked. I use my timing light rev function to determine the correct revs as the dashboard rev counter is not accurate, out by about 20-30 revs which is enough on base idle.

Yet another story... (-: some years back when the digitation of vehicles was in it`s infancy a mechanic pal got to know of a jag that had been sitting for quite some time on a S/H dealers forecourt, and when he made enquires apparently the mechanics could not get it to run... My friend looked over the Jag and agreed a price for the non-runner. Deal done, the dealer asked if my friend wanted it delivered, he replied not just yet, and opened the bonnet pulled the plugs on every item he could see and reach at least a couple of times, then got in fired it up and drove off..!

Given the low voltages on some of those critical digital circuits, even a slight resistance alteration as the result of the build up of the smallest bit of crud can upset the input signal which can then equate to who knows what outcomes..? ... RIRO... Rubbish in =rubbish out. The action of unplugging then plugging back up a few times can do the trick, though care has to be taken not to bend pins...

Yeah for sure I ever got the jitters unplugging and plugging circuit boards to resolve issues but it can and does work on occasion, as can contact cleaner too.

I have stripped MGB and other switchgear numerous times in the past when all sorts of strange faults might show up as the result of the kit not being operated for lengthy periods, and crud would built up on the internal contact faces...Vehicles tend not to like being laid-up and left corroding quietly..?

just spent a couple of hours trying to establish true TDC and I've come to the conclusion that its at 4 degrees ATC.

It'll be interesting to get a strobe back on it and see what that shows 4 degrees plus another 4 is 8 degrees - too much advance???

If your true TDC is really 4 ATDC (mine was 5 ATDC) then 4BTDC would be your 8 degrees. Do check up to 4000rpm to see if it gradually rises to around 28 degrees (the distributor will be fully advanced). Of course once you have it set take for test run on an incline with the engine under load (high gear) to see if there is any pinking, if there is then back off a degree or two and test again.

Over here the quality of petrol varies greatly from pump to pump and I have found when touring that too can have an effect on the performance, I try to use Shell V Power as it seems to be consistent and works best.

If you have not seen these articles they may be useful for you:

http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Rover-14CUX-EFI.htm

https://www.actproducts.co.uk/2011/lucas-14cux-fuel-injection-system-%e2%80%93-installation-and-diagnostic-notes/

As above, it runs great. Pulls very well, no pinking, no flat spots and no hesitation.

The only problem is at idle. Oh, I run on e5 higher octane all the time.

And yes I’ve read the article, thanks.

Also, many thanks for taking the trouble to keep replying, it’s much appreciated.

That's good. I would check the base idle to make sure it is running at 525rpm.

Yes, I’ve set it to 600 previously.

Maybe the higher setting causes the stepper to overcompensate? 510 resistor should arrive tomorrow so I’ll fit that and plug it all back together, check timing and base idle.

Cheers

Hi Grumpy2, does it tend to stall when the engine is hot?