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Looking at photos on line, it seems that some pads (Mintex) do not have a bonded shim, whereas some like TRW do.


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The springs labelled Part 5 are held in place by the pins Part 4. These should have a pin/clip to hold them in place on reassembly. Often a small R-clip.
Take a photo of the set up before replacing as a reference.
Replacing these is a simple enough job as you don’t need to take the pads out.
Changing pads means backing off the pistons in the calliper to leave room for the new and thicker pads to slip in. If no anti squeal inserts are used then Copper grease or other suitable non copper greases designed for brake use on the back of the new pad plates helps with squeal.


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Originally Posted by +8Rich
Hi Craig,

I just put a smear of copper grease on them and they held in place no problems.

I am at a loss to suggest any reason (other than below) why yours has become dislodged but it could well be that it stays where it is now, just keep a regular check on it until you visit Henry's again.



Thanks Richard, after reading up including watching You Tube vids my understanding these anti-squeal vibration plates are either fixed in place with lugs, or glued to the back of the pad. Glue can break down with heat and the plates work loose. I am not heavy on the brakes so I can rule that out.

I spoke with Tony at Williams this morning, he said they see many Morgan's with these plates working loose. They remove them altogether and apply Anti squeal lubricant paste. My next trip will be to a local garage and probably have them removed.

Thanks also to RichardV6, TBM, DW for coming back to me.


Craig Jezz


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Yes, I have had the same on my 2011 +4. The anti squeal plates, ( as TBM correctly identified) are “stuck” to the back of the pads with some sort of goo. When mine slipped I removed them, cleaned up the back of the pads and applied some copperslip. Quck and easy job as long as you don't damage the H-clips when removing pins. (spares easily available from Rimmer Bros.)
I also know of a 2010 +4 where after about 8 years, the pads actually delaminated as Richard referred to.


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Originally Posted by Craig Jezz
Originally Posted by +8Rich
Hi Craig,

I just put a smear of copper grease on them and they held in place no problems.

I am at a loss to suggest any reason (other than below) why yours has become dislodged but it could well be that it stays where it is now, just keep a regular check on it until you visit Henry's again.



Thanks Richard, after reading up including watching You Tube vids my understanding these anti-squeal vibration plates are either fixed in place with lugs, or glued to the back of the pad. Glue can break down with heat and the plates work loose. I am not heavy on the brakes so I can rule that out.

I spoke with Tony at Williams this morning, he said they see many Morgan's with these plates working loose. They remove them altogether and apply Anti squeal lubricant paste. My next trip will be to a local garage and probably have them removed.


Glad you are sorted Craig, it was over 10 years ago when I did the job so I don't recall all the details but certainly all the shims were loose on mine at the time, I do like to give my brakes a bit of serious exercise though just to try and prevent things seizing up.
It's not my driving style but a deliberate effort and normally on a straight bit of open road with hands off - it'll soon tell you if you have a dragging brake or steering problem.

It is the first car I have ever owned that has been fitted with these shims, interestingly the others I have fitted have had the standard steel backing plate bonded on and a smear of copper grease keeps them quiet.


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Glad you got to the bottom of this Craig. As you can see in the 2014 on parts book exploded diagram there are no shims shown either individually or bonded to pads. My original factory fitted from new pads didn't have any and neither was I expecting them. Needless to say the superior EBC pads I fitted also didn't have any either.

I do use a thin smear of Mintex Ceratec anti-squeal compound (accepted as preferable to Copperslip) on edge and back of pads when fitting though.


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Originally Posted by RichardV6
Glad you got to the bottom of this Craig. As you can see in the 2014 on parts book exploded diagram there are no shims shown either individually or bonded to pads. My original factory fitted from new pads didn't have any and neither was I expecting them. Needless to say the superior EBC pads I fitted also didn't have any either.

I do use a thin smear of Mintex Ceratec anti-squeal compound (accepted as preferable to Copperslip) on edge and back of pads when fitting though.


Thanks Richard, I've just seen the Mintex Ceratec on eBay £6.50 inc postage thumbs


Craig Jezz


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Think you are having a laugh when you say EBC pads are superior.

Wouldn't fit them to a wheel barrow.

Had two sets where the friction material sheared off the backing, during bedding in

Arwyn

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This evening i removed these anti squeal shims, they were glued in place same as Deejay’s car (not great) I applied a little copper grease before reinstalling.

Thanks again for talking me through it, it’s easy when you know how.


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Originally Posted by Arwyn Williams
Think you are having a laugh when you say EBC pads are superior.

Wouldn't fit them to a wheel barrow.

Had two sets where the friction material sheared off the backing, during bedding in

Arwyn

I know EBC pads have an indifferent reputation Arwyn and back in the day when first introduced wouldn't touch them for motorcycle use, in the course of my business. A classic example of a company entering the market with a crap product offset by massive advertising budget, I used to tell anyone who would listen innocent

Fast forward 40 years and here they are still in business. After a bit of research tried their "green stuff" pads and found the bite significantly improved over OE, which offsets the limited assistance on my Roadster. Probably under racing conditions they would be useless but they continue to work fine for me and my driving style.


Richard

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