Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Replacement Hood.

My car had only one side tight! I used the slots to provide adjustment for the hood “prongs” to sit correctly over the catches and the screws are tight.
I’m happy to stand corrected.

Thanks for those thoughts.....but different slots and screws methinks. The ones I'm describing are visible inside the car just behind the driver's/passenger's head, and not the ones in the prongs. Hard to photograph; next time I have the hood down I'll do another pic.

Peter, they are attached to the fixed hinge, they should be tight (ish) and allow the front to rear hood position relative to the body to be fine tuned

Ah, I see, yes that makes sense now. The passenger side ones were very loose (5mm clearance) so I'll sort that. Thanks.

I owe SALMO an apology for misunderstanding his reply to my O.P. Those slidy bits (and as explained further above by CooperMan) do indeed permit the hood securing prongs to take-up their correct position. This may be one of those "secret features" that relates to the other posts on the subject of getting the rear of the Easy-Up hoods into the correct position. My hood now fits better than ever, fore/aft and laterally, on both sides. And the hood release lever now does its job properly (with the downward pressure on the rear of the hood to help matters along). The only tool I required was a 4mm allen key cut-down to about 9mm on the short arm to enable me to get to the slightly-sliding securing bolts.
"Thinking and manipulating time" was about an hour, so that's saved me a heap of dealer charges.

Great news Peter

Absolutely no probs, Peter, I'm glad it helped.
Just wait until you need to replace the catches themselves, you will need the fingers of a surgeon and a swear box!

The rear hood rail that carries the two securing pins (like bonnet catches), is called the Rear Composite Rail, a plastic molding, but probably made out of nougat. The two screws, that allow the fore aft adjustment, screw into threaded inserts that are molded into the plastic. The result is a reduced cross section of the rail, and a weak point. I discovered that the rail on my Plus 4 had broken on both sides at the point where the inserts had been molded in. Probably broken for some time as the cloth trim hides the break and keeps the rail together. I have made up splints to keep the rail together and will probably get a replacement rail (part RUH 1100) fitted in the winter. On another Plus 4 I know of, the rail broke in another location where there is a steel reinforcing bar molded into the rail. Probably using plastic as they can use nails and staples to secure the hood and trim.

Yikes, a steel reinforcing bar sounds a bit like overkill. But hey if it works, fine. I do like the idea of splints though, well done Mike.

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I think my temporary repair may be somewhat stronger than the original

Using rivenuts to provide a low profile replacement of the threaded inserts, and to affix the plates to the aft part of the rail, and allow for a 'splint' plate on each side. Once the cloth trim is back in place there is no sign of the repair

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