Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Dip lights suddenly out ? Help

TSM = turn signal and headlamp module. An infamous device that someone is or was re-engineering in more robust form.

Many thanks for the heads up Richard. Ah, a "module," the bain of my life during my time as a paid employee trying to keep leading edge kit of all types and from multiple manufacturers operational, and oft times under pressure to do so, while manufacturers would play the intellectual copywright card to enable them to withhold data maintaining control, financial and otherwise, over the end user.. Spent some time disceting modules until they becan encapsulating them in epoxy or similar.... Yeah things have moved on at an exponential rate, and my memory has faded too, a less than ideal mix..More than pleased that you are around to put me right Richard.

Thanks guys . I’m walking down that long road . Testing source feeds, if my dip relay socket gets 12 volt , when it should . My car I believe has a separate dip relay. Yes your right about the relays related to my flash/stalk. But I’ve switched out TSM to no avail . However as you hint I believe that “ micro function “ lies in the TSM. I have not checked pins / connect at stalk . Cause that’s a bear . I’m checking logical feed points . Working super closely with wire schematic and color codes . I had them . But Richard refreshed my stupidity! Lol they are Mucho helpful and essential. Thanks I will update as I gain ground

Tested. 16/17 it’s what you said . No power at main fuse when main and ignition key on . Keep in mind for me to have main beams in I pull stalk and hold it . So your test suggested works out . 👍🏼
Next zero power either side of dash connector blu 129. Zero power at TSM blue .
The final and rock solid accurate relay location and layout is as follows . Mines a 2017 . Hopefully this will be helpful to the many . I spent untold hours looking and being sure , pulling and replacing relays etc .
If your facing front nose of car - first row of two relays - left front Dip / sometimes specified as “dip/main”
Right front- is Engine /start relay
Left rear Main headlight
Right rear - Pump/engine
Thanks again I’m going in a loose connection hunt /dash etc .
I noticed you don’t seem to suspicious about a bad “ switched feed from the steering column / key 🔑 switch ?
I’m not sure but I would think Everything /the hot 12v , initially comes off the key switch . Since the headlights extinguish normally when keybturned off ?
Just sharing my logic .
Point me in any specific direction or test point. Since I rock rock solid know what relay is what . I was going to remove Dip relay and test for input voltage with key and switch on .
Don’t know if it helps , but I have a Fog factory switch that’s all loaded with wires etc , looks like it jumpers over to light switch .
I don’t know if my car has a Fog filiment (I do have center reflector )
I gotta look but it don’t work either ha . It’s rear center light that should work ? But it does not illuminate. May all be tied to the elusive problem .

Ok Progress… since I definitely and positively know each of the four relays and definite locations. And totally familiar with wire codes and color code key. I have focused on the needed relay feed tests . The “ Dip /main “ relay is fed fine from key turn .
The “Dip” relay however has zero voltage in all states . Key on or off . I’m checking for volts at the 12 v battery feed socket to relay. AND the 12v volt “Trigger” socket . Both dead 💀 with key on or off . Clearly this is part of issue . At least I know it’s not a relay ( kinda knew that , cause I changed them out many times ).
I was kinda surprised 😮, or was anticipating my test light to light up , from “ trigger” socket test ? Thinking the trigger 12v could still be present coming from the key on event ? It did not , and I just was surprised / bemused . Lol Even though the relay was definitely not getting the main 12v at that pin. So ? Means trigger AND relay feed originate / or string together from the same ( failed source ) . I’m going to remove rear of dash and delve into it tomorrow . Thanks 🙏

Not sure if you read my post on your "Relay" thread here. You have now confirmed there is no power to the dip/main relay as I thought. Hopefully you did check for this with ignition and headlamp switch on though? As previously suggested you need to be focusing in the area of the headlamp switch now and beyond if necessary to relay. Is the switch itself getting power for example? This is on the green cable from 12 way behind dash connector C31 and on pin 2, this carrying power in to headlamp switch and out on blue cable pin 3. Sorry don't know colours of cables to switch itself as only connector shown on schematic.

Regarding no trigger voltage to relay coil from TSM as you flick to main beam (default being dip beam) as you have found this is to be expected because the TSM relies on the same power feed that you presently don't have from headlamp switch - it's looped through at relay connection hence two blue wires. This avoids the possibility of relay coil remaining energised when headlamps not selected.

Yes ! I read everything! Ha and appreciate it. Plus your so Right on - with your knowledge and smarts . I misstated in my last happy message. It’s the DIP/main relay , that’s not fed /dead. NOt the main . Just wanted to be totally accurate. We know /why it makes sense to be “dip/main. I’m going to “ go through “ things again today. Based on your even more specific directions and comments. I had all your thought in my head as well. However some of your comments give me such clarity, direction and confidence. 👍🏼. I surmised the “ common feed source for TSM .
Just pointing out .
My dash “ light switch “ normally functioning “ is to throw on” my rear lights “, the “dip headlights “, normally function/come on via the key turn . Definitely could be switch problem. However just wanted to point out the normal function of . Dip lights on via key and switch ONLY. Clicking on rear lights ( and of course my led headlight round Halo rings . My light dash switch does “Do /turn on / function “ , a ok in that respect. 👍🏼. I do find it odd- but it’s probably not , that the mini lead I use for halos , is fine/works off switch . I believe it’s part of the rear light circuit . It’s called the “ indicator tracer or something weird ?
It’s a “ European “ feature . But works fine for me . If I leave my dash light switch on - my rear leds are on and my halos up front . Even with key off.
If left on / inadvertently…… very little drain of battery. I also can sit in car with rear lights in and front halos on . For safety / cool ness . My halos legally are flash modulated . Which is legal as my M3w is a “ motorcycle “.
Thanks again . I will be spending all a day at it again .
Your most recent comments, in my task focus . Will update .
I was exhausted later last night and will recheck dip/main feed again ( it’s easy peasy now ), but yes 99 % positive that both feed ( blue ) , and trigger on , are Dead / zero voltage in any state . Key on / dash light sw. on .

3 rd shot at this post . All feeds of coulum good . 4 boiled down to two . Red always hot green key activated . Both go directly into wiring harness
New ! List my main beam flash function ? So both relays /I tested again are not getting 12v to battery female pin of relays. Odd and frustrating. Maybe we are getting closer ? Ha farther away …
Rechecked quickly there no power at 12 way on the large blue and large green.
Im posting smaller cause my one page post attempt failed 3 times lol

My Light dash switch ! Very interesting it has 4 connections active . From back - top left purple feed always on , aok
Bottom left red brown . Feeds rear ,halos, clock dash light and dip beam dash indicatior icon it’s aok
Now …. Right column / both are green . Ohmed out the right side of switch and appears that there is no switching action going on on that bank ( right) so I jumpered the two green and that did nothing ? Shucks thought we had it . Tested green wires for voltage . They are dead with key on , lights on , both , etc
So I can’t imagine wiring the green into a switch that’s not needed ?
And should they be live ( green ) or just slaves , when switch is thrown ? Kinda thinking that I have multiple issues lurking in one spot . Thanks again

Sorry … the wires in question on light switch are 1- green and one blue , the blue also has a blue jumper over to the fog lite switch adjacent.
There’s 3 pins or right side of switch top and bottom where the green and blue leads were? Seem not to “ switch” . The middle pin is switching ?
However since I jumpered the blue green together and nothing improved/ happened ? I’m going to not focus to much on switch ? Which appears not to be switching on blue green side . Because I believe the culprit is no voltage to green . I Surmise it’s the Green ( ing. Switch feed color)wire /issue /FEED ? Cause the blue is jumpered over to the fog switch . Which makes sense cause when you click dash light switch …. It will bring 12v over to fog switch .
So why is my green dead at dash light ? And why does it appear blu green side of dash switch is not switching ( I’m unsure of this ) . Dosent matter . Cause their definitely! Should be voltage on the green connector !
I’m stumped by certainty testing away making some headway I believe I’m headed into fuse / relay box next ? Or possibly some continuity tests from ? To where ? Need next link in chain . Thanks