Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) What Did You Do To Your Morgan Today?

Known as taper, second and plug taps over here. For cleaning an existing thread in blind hole I would just use the last two or even last one.

Probably won't need the last one as it's an open hole - I'd ordered it to clean out the four blind ones, but didn't need it in the end = did the job with a bolt and some more plusgas. I'm sure it will come in.....

Best tool for removing broken/sheared studs - a set of left hand drills

At least you didn't have to use an easy out - hate those things with a passion as they break off in the job.

The cheaper ones can be pecked out with a carbide drill or slot drill but the premium ones need sparking out

Arwyn

Yep, have a set of left hand drills - I hoped they would loosen something off but no joy. I even tried whacking in a torx bit when the hole was small and unscrewing, but it was VERY stubborn.

Along those same lines, TBM, I replaced the manifold gaskets on my TR-4A-engined +4 today. I used a graphite Remflex gasket as the replacement. Naturally, when tightening the last stud bolt, I sheared it off, right at the head. I was able to drill it and extract the remnants with an EZ-out. Fortunately, those who came before me had the good manners to use an anti-seize compound.

I expected the engine compartment clamor to subside a bit, but I was pleasantly surprised by several ancillary improvements. The engine ran cooler, the cockpit temperature was cooler, and the crackling and popping on the overrun is now gone. Someone also pointed out that the CO levels in the cockpit have probably dropped as well.

What's really put a grin on my face is that I can once again hear the SU symphony when I roll on the throttle and really get after it. It's not the full orchestra that you get with Webers, but it's not an anaemic little wheeze, either.

All of the misery seems to have been coming from the #4 cylinder:

Top work - luckier than me with the broken stud! I've stuffed a sh1tload of anti sieze on the new studs!

The popping on overun, and the cockpit smell were what alerted me to check the manifold. Can't wait to get her fixed......

Being a new boy to Morgans, and having recovered my old Wanner Grease gun from my son, decided the front suspension needed greasing.
Found several useful articles on the subject, especially noting the need to lift the damper plate. However, I failed in that! There must be a technique to get a flat blade under the plate to lift it. Unfortunately didn't have much time, so it will have to wait a bit longer. Any advice on that front will be more than welcome.

I think the standard method it to try and lever them up, however I struggled with that too. I've used a small bottle jack under the bottom of the damper plate mount (on the stub axle). Lifted it no more than 2-3mm but helps to get the grease through.

Grumpy, I am no expert, but I did on one occasion lift my damper plates to ensure a good bed of grease got in between the plate and the face it runs on machined into the axle assemblage, the idea of the grease being to lessen the steering input by the driver..?

In the case of my +8 ensuring those faces had grease between them did indeed reduce steering effort... for a while, though exactly how long I have no idea.. It was no more than a rough experiment for me.

In the case of my +8 the plate is made of some sort of bronze... If jacking the plate against spring pressure there is a chance it could bend or fracture.

As I understand it the whole idea of the DAMPER plate is exactly that, to act as a damper to unwanted oscillations of the front wheel and subsequent unwanted inputs to the steering wheel, known as St Malvern's dance by old hands..?

I suspect the idea of using some sort of bronze material is for it to be the sacrificial element in the wear process, and that bronze against steel is proven to be a reasonable bearing surface..?

As with many modifications when trying to improve on the simplicity of Morgan`s initial design, a measure of balance is best introduced into one`s thinking and in the case of the damper wherein lies the point of balance between maximum damping and ease of steering wheel input..?

I think the St Malvern's dance issue may well have reduced considerably as tyre technology changed from cross-ply to radial and perhaps more so as the width of the tyres footprint increased to the extent that the need for damping may have reduced considerably over time.

As we became older and automotive technology moved on, we became more used to power steering and various other comforts, the old damper came in for a degree of scrutiny in terms of it`s existence given it did indeed add a requirement for more steering effort than might be actually be required.

I have read all sorts of educated discussion on rake, trail, camber along with the action of the possible twisting moment effect of coil springs under compression etc. etc. more than enough to make my head spin...

If you want to know how effective your dampers might be or not... Then you could temporarily just remove the blades connecting them to the chassis and drive over a mix of terrain... However beware the St Malvern's dance can be frighting... Not that I ever experienced it in my Morgan but as a Land Rover owner of old, boy the steering wheel can oscillate alarmingly even when just taking away from a standstill... Though in old LR`s there is a spring built in to the linkages add to the fun.

Hope I have not muddied the water Grumpy... Seems I oft times get things wrong.

George I think the bearing surfaces are bronze shims, the sliding plate is spring steel . Happy to be corrected as always.
The bronze bearings are replaceable items as they are subject to wear if not lubricated.

For Grumpy Pa - check there is no lateral movement of the blade, if so replace the shims for a smoother ride.
Very cheap even at Rutters