Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) What Did You Do To Your Morgan Today?

Acetone will definitely damage the paint. Probably remove it altogether...

What really worries me about your experience, is the spontaneous dripping of super-glue. In such circumstances, I always refer to this video to tell me when to stop...

https://youtu.be/Z4fBbhyzE9A

And if you run out of paint to go at the acetone will start on the gel coat of the fibreglass as an encore!

K

Have you tried Sovol Autosol, I use it for flattening re-painted stone chips and polishing plastic headlights.

Polish the residual bit off. Just be careful to keep the polish on the mark itself. One tip....use a small dowel/pencil with polish (autosol or any other) dabbed on the end. Put it over the spot and rotate it. Remember lapping valve seats? Either spin it by hand or use a drill to hold the dowel/pencil. Check regularly to avoid over polishing the paint. When happy polish the whole area/panel lightly as a blending in. Slow and steady wins the race as Terry Wogan would say.

Thanks will have a go doing that. The idea of acetone made me shudder, but plenty on internet on the subject.

The muffler hanger, which was welded to the tailpipe, broke. So, between NAPA for some rubber mounts and a clamp, and Home Depot for an angle bracket, I made a temporary repair...

Installed a reversing camera, mounted to me luggage rack. More discrete if it was mounted just above the licence plate but I wanted an angle so I could see the rear corner to take some of the guess work out when reversing into my rear yard. Decided against wiring it up to the reverse light as there's a button on the power feed that switches it on instantly.

Fixed the fuel gauge. It hasn't been working, so had to dip to check fuel level.
Found the connection from the coil in the sender was broken. Managed to solder a short length of wire to the broken end, with the help of my son. Both of us with glasses and a magnifying lamp! Seemed to be OK, but when reconnected gauge still showed empty. Removed gauge and found the needle had stuck. There was a film of oil around the instrument head which seems to have come from the connection to the oil pressure gauge. Didn't seem to be any sealing washer there, should there be?
All now working, so today's job is to refit the instrument.

I note you have a proper ground connection to sender. Many vehicles of that era had OE only the one sender connection, relying on tank to chassis grounding through fixings to complete the circuit.

With the moving iron gauge you almost certainly have a check on the instrument itself is achieved by simply removing the connection to sender. With ignition on the gauge should read instantly beyond full, and similarly with same removed wire touched to tank, the gauge should read below empty. This latter check also proves the aforementioned tank to chassis connectivity.