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Originally Posted by nick w
Just my humble opinion, but I would use a waterproof pva glue and clamps for the splits as it has less build than an epoxy so a more invisible join. Then, when that was all dry I would epoxy the holes. When I see splits like that it's usually because the hole wasn't drilled big enough and so the screw strains the grain from the moment of insertion.
Would you have enough leeway to glue some veneer on the back where the holes and split break through. Even a very thin skin can provide alot of strength.
Then drill the exact size of the core of the screw.
Apologies if I'm stating the obvious, if you know about wood repair.
Nick


Thanks, Nick, PVA is excellent, and what I always use for jointed surfaces, but I prefer epoxy for this type of repair. The repair won't be visible anyway, but I will fill the holes with epoxy thickened with some mahogany sawdust. The pilot holes were definitely not drilled large enough, if there were any drilled in the first place! I will be moving the mounts for the windscreens forward a bit so the fasteners will not impact the dash board at all, which is as it should have been done originally.

And, yes, I do know a bit about wood as I helped build this... [Linked Image]

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Originally Posted by Lordofthewings
I wonder if it still smells the same as it did all those years ago.... being non-solvent-based it was non addictive, just reminds me of Dad's workshop. Now Britfix 66 balsa cement for my R/C model aircraft, that's a different story wink

Interesting you say that. I don't think it does. Either that or I'm so used to it I can't smell it so much now. I have read that they did have to change the formula awhile ago, around the time wd40 had to change, but I don't know any history of it. But it seems to have a shorter shelf life now. I used to use big tins of it, but now buy as small a quantity as possible.

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Crikey 1854.... didn't you just use tar for that? smile smile

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Originally Posted by nick w
Crikey 1854.... didn't you just use tar for that? smile smile


Yup, and lots of it! Also epoxy and resorcinol for the interior joinery...

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Originally Posted by 1854sailor
Originally Posted by John V6
On my +4 I drilled through the ash frame and used nuts & bolts but then I used Simmonds posts that are quite different being a large round foot so very stable. My first mog a 4/4 had the standard feet already fitted & they tended to vibrate loose. The disadvantage was on the drivers side they were a ted close to the screen so with the screen up the knobs on the uts tightening the screens need to be in just the right place or they fouled the screen.


Where can I find the Simmonds posts that you mentioned?


Sadly they closed the business. Maybe a wanted ad on here might work


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All glued up...

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Originally Posted by John V6
Originally Posted by 1854sailor
Originally Posted by John V6
On my +4 I drilled through the ash frame and used nuts & bolts but then I used Simmonds posts that are quite different being a large round foot so very stable. My first mog a 4/4 had the standard feet already fitted & they tended to vibrate loose. The disadvantage was on the drivers side they were a ted close to the screen so with the screen up the knobs on the uts tightening the screens need to be in just the right place or they fouled the screen.


Where can I find the Simmonds posts that you mentioned?


Sadly they closed the business. Maybe a wanted ad on here might work


Are you sure? He still regularly posts about work he's doing on FB and still has a website. Simmonds


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1972 4/4, 1981 MGBGT, 1984 FLHT1340, 1980 XLH1000, 1990 ZX10
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He is still in business, but doesn't have the posts any longer. He recommended Techniques, but for £112, not including shipping to the US for the set, I'll live with what I have...

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Maybe a plate underneath to spread the load & use bolts.


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Almost ready for varnish...

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