Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Cracked Dashboard

Geoff, the screws are close to the edge of the dash board, that's why it cracked. Also, the board is angled, so installing threaded inserts won't work. I'll post some pictures in the morning.

Difficult to visualise but after making good the dashboard could you attach a piece of wood to the back to allow plenty of meat for screws to bite into without splitting dashboard?

Richard, that method would move the dash panel back and there would be interference with the Lift-The-Dot pins for the toneau cover. It would also make it necessary to remove the windscreen posts to get the dash out in the future if necessary. I've pretty much decided to go the proper route and move the posts forward, where they will fasten solidly into the scuttle frame. I'm having the bonnet and cowl painted, so I'll just have the shop fill in the holes and blend in the repair.

On my +4 I drilled through the ash frame and used nuts & bolts but then I used Simmonds posts that are quite different being a large round foot so very stable.
My first mog a 4/4 had the standard feet already fitted & they tended to vibrate loose.



The disadvantage was on the drivers side they were a ted close to the screen so with the screen up the knobs on the uts tightening the screens need to be in just the right place or they fouled the screen.

Where can I find the Simmonds posts that you mentioned?

Here are a couple of pictures of the dash board. Still not completely removed...

Just my humble opinion, but I would use a waterproof pva glue and clamps for the splits as it has less build than an epoxy so a more invisible join. Then, when that was all dry I would epoxy the holes. When I see splits like that it's usually because the hole wasn't drilled big enough and so the screw strains the grain from the moment of insertion.
Would you have enough leeway to glue some veneer on the back where the holes and split break through. Even a very thin skin can provide alot of strength.
Then drill the exact size of the core of the screw.
Apologies if I'm stating the obvious, if you know about wood repair.
Nick

+1. Or use old-fashioned Cascamite https://polyvine.com/index.php/en/products/adhesives/cascamite (plus those clamps suggested by Nick). My Dad taught me to use it in the 1950's and the repairs he did to furniture outlasted the items' life. Avoid using e.g. Gorilla wood glue which expands (NOT what you want !).

Cascamite great glue and slow to go off so plenty of time to adjust clamps etc. But it does have much more bulk than pva... it's a medium build glue. it's great for filling tiny gaps but it does mean you can't get a perfect mating of the two faces of the crack. It never creeps though so is excellent. And waterproof. However, if you do use it make sure you wipe off any excess. If you let excess dry it will ruin your chisel trying to get rid of it. It dries rock hard.

I wonder if it still smells the same as it did all those years ago.... being non-solvent-based it was non addictive, just reminds me of Dad's workshop. Now Britfix 66 balsa cement for my R/C model aircraft, that's a different story