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Perhaps I am doing this wrong but I do store mine over the winter with a battery tender only. It fires up on first start and off I go. Well, ok, I let it idle for a bit to get the fluids moving but never had an issue. 4/4 with a 1.6.

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Entirely my point thumbs


Richard

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Ditto my lawn mower. Though I do service it in the autumn. Arwyn's point is to get the oil well distributed before high revs. As I understand it most engine wear occurs on starting cold.


JohnV6
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Originally Posted by MOG 615
Originally Posted by Arwyn Williams
Plugs out then turn it over on the starter to get the oil pressure up/get the oil circulating.

You will know when the oil pressure light goes out or the guage starts showing working pressure.

Plugs back in and start the car!

Arwyn


Arwyn

100% agreement but don't underestimate the access is tricky to plugs on the Zetec engine

1 Getting the plugs out is OK if they come out with the spanner, otherwise it might take a while to "snare" them with a piece of tubing over the insulator

2 Getting the plug back in generally calls for them to "held" in the same plastic tubing, so you can start the thread by hand.



Andy

Easy.....a couple of years ago I bought a a job lot of tools from a retiring aircraft mechanic, mostly his sheet metal forming tools but also his magnetiser/demagnnetiser.

So I simply magnetise the spark plug socket and then demagnetise it when the job is done.....

Arwyn

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On fuel injected Morgans, trip the inertia switch to disable the fuel pump, turn the engine over to get some fresh supply of oil around the engine, reset inertia switch and start.


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Mike Smith

2007 +4

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teknome, you are a man after my own heart, a bit of mechanical sympathy seems unlikely to hurt after a lay-up. there is little to chill the blood more than to listen to the rattle in an old engine just fired up after lay-up, seeming to take forever until the oil pressure has time to build... In the few car engines I have built, even though I lubed the load bearing parts during the build, I still would run them on the starter with the plugs out until the oil pressure registered on the gauge, or the oil warning light went out, prior to firing it up..

On my mid 80`s +8 the fuel pump relay is switched through the oil pressure switch, thus for those who want to just jump in and go after lay up..... chances are that they may be going nowhere for to get going, chances are that the fuel in the carb bowls will have evaporated somewhat, the time taken to spin the engine till oil pressure builds while cranking the engine taking ever more out of the battery which may also have suffered during lay up... to then finally bring in the fuel pump via it`s relay which will take more time to fill the carb bowls up...what chance the spark might be somewhat weak as the battery voltage may have dropped considerably during all that cranking...?

Modern oils and engineering tolerences may well have together have reduced the chances of rattle at start up after lay up... But.. ?

teknome #774055 07/04/23 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by teknome
On fuel injected Morgans, trip the inertia switch to disable the fuel pump, turn the engine over to get some fresh supply of oil around the engine, reset inertia switch and start.


Mike how do you disable it? Remove the wires? Or if you push the switch in does it unlatch?


JohnV6
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Why not just pull the fuel pump relay ?


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If you want to stop a Duratec (or other ECU driven engines) firing or spiting fuel just pull the crank sensor plug.

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Thanks everyone for all the helpful advice. I'd like to say I took it all, but...

It started immediately on the first turn of the key, as if I'd driven it yesterday instead of 4, maybe 5 months ago. Steady idle and good oil pressure straight away. No nasty noises. No pools or puddles. Nothing stuck or seized.

Happy Easter!


2012 4/4 75th Anniversary in Le Mans green
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