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Wales
by Joske Vermeule, September 1
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Forums39
Topics49,901
Posts838,045
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Most Online1,063
Jun 14th, 2026
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There are no members with birthdays on this day. |
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 931 Likes: 47
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 931 Likes: 47 |
I followed the diagram above when I installed my steering bearings, but found trying to get the main spring back in impossible, so had to compress them with straps. How odd! What happened exactly? The same method has been followed by many hundreds for 40-50 years with great success. It is the safest method for the job. Did you measure the length of your new main springs before installing them? I admire your ingenuity! Lorne
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 8,697 Likes: 416
Needs to Get Out More!
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Needs to Get Out More!
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 8,697 Likes: 416 |
I followed the diagram above when I installed my steering bearings, but found trying to get the main spring back in impossible, so had to compress them with straps. The SSL instructions on disassembling front suspension prior to fitting their RS kit go to great lengths explaining there will be residual tension left in the main spring after the rebound spring has been removed and stub axle is resting on lower cross arm. They suggest covering same in blankets to avoid damage to bodywork when you pull it out from its seat. In reality I found virtually no energy left in springs and both easily pulled out with no drama. I can imagine fitting new plain main springs especially if higher rate, and/or fitting steering bearings for the first time may provide a little challenge though. Tyre levers spring to mind 
Richard
2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
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Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 502
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 502 |
I followed the diagram above when I installed my steering bearings, but found trying to get the main spring back in impossible, so had to compress them with straps. How odd! What happened exactly? The same method has been followed by many hundreds for 40-50 years with great success. It is the safest method for the job. Did you measure the length of your new main springs before installing them? I admire your ingenuity! Lorne I kept the original springs, which will have increased the compression needed to get it back in, just too much for me to get in by hand.
2004 Series 1 Roadster
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Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 809 Likes: 59
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 809 Likes: 59 |
Scroll down this page as check out the shovel method https://madaboutmorgans.com/remove-and-reinstall-morgan-spindles/Our own Ron Gardner here in the states put this together. I used a stainless-steel garden spade as a rusty one won't let the spring move. I also drilled a small hole in the end so I could slip a screwdriver through the top to make it more secure until the spring was almost in place.
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Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 383 Likes: 6
Learner Plates Off!
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Learner Plates Off!
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 383 Likes: 6 |
Yes, I can vouch for the spade method. I used my wife’s stainless spade, which is a bit smaller, and put a smear of grease on the surface to help with the “slide”.
Regards
Geof
70th Anniversary 4/4 (Duratec 1.8), model 1995
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 931 Likes: 47
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 931 Likes: 47 |
I followed the diagram above when I installed my steering bearings, but found trying to get the main spring back in impossible, so had to compress them with straps. How odd! What happened exactly? The same method has been followed by many hundreds for 40-50 years with great success. It is the safest method for the job. Did you measure the length of your new main springs before installing them? Lorne I kept the original springs, which will have increased the compression needed to get it back in, just too much for me to get in by hand. Thank you Leroy. So they were longer with the rungs further apart..? The MMC has been playing with front spring rates for different reasons for the last two decades, primarily in an effort to make the front "softer" which effects the front handling A LOT..especially as the cars have become heavier. That is why I asked you for the length. For more powerful Morgan models, I recommend the original rates. Your Series I Roadster falls into that category. (I very much like that Roadster model). They used to call then, probably still do! 'Plus Four main springs. Plus Fours and Plus Eights used them for decades. Picture below. They have the original +4 and +8 140 rate. The MMC embraced the eMog fad for steering races (those bearing thingies at the bottom of the main springs) in late 2007. I am not sure if or how they adjusted the springs for added pre-load. If so, I wonder which springs you were sent. A lower or higher rate changes the car's comportment in turns. I find the 140s crisper handling than the mild wallowing one I sense with lower rates in a more powerful Morgan like yours (or my car). If you feel an unwelcome change, merely swapping Main Springs in or out is not too much of a chore, as you know now. Merely fiddly. Good luck. Lorne ![[Linked Image]](http://www.gomog.com/TEMP/springs140lbs.jpg)
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Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,464 Likes: 99
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,464 Likes: 99 |
These are the very simple spring compressors I made to safely remove and reinstall the main springs. I didn't fancy the 'blanket of hope' method and with approx 20mm compression I feel I was right to compress the springs in a controlled way. I'd never have got my main springs back in without these compressors. And that was with the rebound springs removed using the two stud method outline above. Perhaps springs were incorrect, too long or too strong, I don't know but these worked for me on at least two occasions. Made from 25mm square tubing . ![[Linked Image]](https://www.tm-img.com/images/2023/04/24/IMG_8303.jpeg)
Last edited by Grumpy2; 24/04/23 07:42 PM.
2012 Plus 4 in Sport Green. Much comfier than the Plus 8!
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Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 502
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 502 |
I followed the diagram above when I installed my steering bearings, but found trying to get the main spring back in impossible, so had to compress them with straps. How odd! What happened exactly? The same method has been followed by many hundreds for 40-50 years with great success. It is the safest method for the job. Did you measure the length of your new main springs before installing them? Lorne I kept the original springs, which will have increased the compression needed to get it back in, just too much for me to get in by hand. Thank you Leroy. So they were longer with the rungs further apart..? The MMC has been playing with front spring rates for different reasons for the last two decades, primarily in an effort to make the front "softer" which effects the front handling A LOT..especially as the cars have become heavier. That is why I asked you for the length. For more powerful Morgan models, I recommend the original rates. Your Series I Roadster falls into that category. (I very much like that Roadster model). They used to call then, probably still do! 'Plus Four main springs. Plus Fours and Plus Eights used them for decades. Picture below. They have the original +4 and +8 140 rate. The MMC embraced the eMog fad for steering races (those bearing thingies at the bottom of the main springs) in late 2007. I am not sure if or how they adjusted the springs for added pre-load. If so, I wonder which springs you were sent. A lower or higher rate changes the car's comportment in turns. I find the 140s crisper handling than the mild wallowing one I sense with lower rates in a more powerful Morgan like yours (or my car). If you feel an unwelcome change, merely swapping Main Springs in or out is not too much of a chore, as you know now. Merely fiddly. Good luck. Lorne My springs are labelled plus 8, so I guess they have a higher compression rate.
2004 Series 1 Roadster
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 931 Likes: 47
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 931 Likes: 47 |
My springs are labelled plus 8, so I guess they have a higher compression rate.
 That is not how things work on Pickersleigh. Labelling is whimsical. After 50+ years, they merely changed the label but not the spring rate. https://morgan-kent.com/product/main-coil-spring-4tr-8-black-05-91/ Plus 4s for early Plus 8s are now Plus 8s for early(TR) Plus 4s. There was a point where some racers tried main springs with rates higher than 140s.180s IIRC. IMHO a VERY bad idea. Many Moggers inexplicably assume that firmer suspensions are better. But cars handle better and go faster when their wheels are on the road rather than hopping over it. The Factory tried to reverse that trend in the early 2000s. Be well. L.
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 37,481 Likes: 989
Tricky Dicky Member of the Inner Circle
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Tricky Dicky Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 37,481 Likes: 989 |
These are the very simple spring compressors I made to safely remove and reinstall the main springs. I didn't fancy the 'blanket of hope' method and with approx 20mm compression I feel I was right to compress the springs in a controlled way. I'd never have got my main springs back in without these compressors. And that was with the rebound springs removed using the two stud method outline above. Perhaps springs were incorrect, too long or too strong, I don't know but these worked for me on at least two occasions. Made from 25mm square tubing . That would be my approach, a far safer one.
2009 4/4 Sport Henrietta
1999 Indigo Blue +8
2009 4/4 Sport Green prev
1993 Con Green +8 prev
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