Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Radiator replacement for 2008 +4

I only have an old SiFab price list from 2020. I can tell you the 3.7 Roadster aluminium radiator was the same price as +4 GDI. I would expect Mulfab one to be around £600 now inc.VAT. Suggest giving them a call as there seem to be pages missing on their website at present.

Ok good idea. Thanks

Hello

The Mulfab radiator for Europe 1500€.
Because of the taxes.
I'll receive it next Friday and the dealer will made the job.
It is not funny

Ouch. Check the top bracket weld mine failed after 18 months you could peel it off by hand. Mulfab weren't interested.
https://tm-img.com/images/2023/10/04/20231004_124339.jpeg

Pictures tell it all

Mulfab radiator top bracket welding?



Equivalent SiFab radiator top bracket (sadly no longer available)

Here is mine rewelded & in place


and a comparison of old vs new

On my Plus8 I had a Morgan rad fitted as a replacement by a previous owner. Fitted by a dealer not DIY.
The top bracket was peeling as above. The reason was that the top mounting bracket hole was out of line with the bracket on the cross bar causing side stress. Not a very good fit by the dealer as it was clear that the mis-alignment was there. No leaks as it was just the weld peeling away.
I did two things.
1. Elongated the holes to get a better alignment. This didn’t give enough overlap so...
2. Made my own bracket profiled to fit over the top tank and put padding on it to prevent rubbing. I put a new bobbin in at the same time.
The rad , in my opinion, was under specced as the cooling was ok but too close to the limit. It needed a slight increase in cooling capability. The fan kicked in too often as reduced airflow led to too frequent temp increases. It only overheated twice when the fan fuse failed. The loud fan and temp gauge combo was a warning that the fan hadn’t kicked in so a kind of audible warning! Even extra airflow management didn’t really improve it. Basically the rad design needed more gills per inch and/or an extra row of tubes. This was the norm for rads we made in the rad factory I worked in. Rads for slightly larger capacity engines could be simply upgraded in this way eg. 1.1L to 1.3L variants in different models of a car. No need for major design changes.

There should be no need for side (lateral) stress on the ally rad top bracket. The supporting tie bar is adjustable in this plane using the inner nuts onto inner wheel valances that support it, locked with outer nuts within wheel arch.

Simon always advised “Assemble EVERYTHING loose until it’s sitting right”.

Absolutely agree Doug. I initially tightened all fixings just enough to hold, such I could manoeuvre rad into ideal position then when satisfied gently started nipping up.