Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) The Sweet Spot?

Over the years, on Talk Morgan, there have been a number of conversations regarding the ideal year of Plus 4, Plus 8 and 4/4. In general, these questions have centred around ease of use, reliability or, more often than not, budget.

However, I'm interested to know what the mechanically inclined believe to be the ideal model for the driveway novice mechanic to maintain?

Is there a sweet spot in terms of years where someone with basic tools and even more basic knowledge, can maintain their Morgan and do most jobs without having to resort to visiting a mechanic or requiring specialist equipment?

As we all know, Morgan gradually made changes to each model over the years and my guess is opinions will vary based on experience, mechanical know-how and length and breadth of tool-chest!

I was asked this question recently, by someone looking to purchase a Morgan; the end goal was to find one he could maintain with his teenage children and ultimately was as much about that experience as it was driving it.

Would be interesting to hear how the far more mechanically inclined would answer that question.

I would go with a Ford Crossflow engined 4/4. Almost unlimited parts availability and several examples on TM of full rebuilds (Image) or rolling upgrade programmes (TBM et al).
And (with help from Burton Power and others) tuneable to give quite a bit more power.

CVH engined 4/4 introduce electronic distributors and their associated complexity which require some ingenuity in finding parts these days.

I love my 2014 4/4 but do wonder when I will start to find problems in getting parts for the engine. The gearbox is less of a worry as there are so many MX5's out there!

Very much looking forward to Arwyn and other fully hands on people's contributions to this thread.

I'm sure there will be different perspectives on this, but I think you could make an argument for a Ford xflow based 4/4 - 1969 or early 1970s say.

Parts are plentiful for the 1600 Xflow engine (eg Burton Power), and the Weber DGV 32/36 carburettor is easy to tune. There are no electronics and no ECU to worry about. If you choose to MOT it, then there are no emissions to worry about. And the tax is zero. You can fit a simple electronic ignition if you don't want to faff about with points etc (eg Acuspark or Lumenition). You can fit an electrical fuel pump if you wish to. There are no fancy PCBs in the electrical wiring - mind you any car from the that era is likely to have some electrical gremlins but again, the Lucas parts can still be obtained.The running gear and suspension are simply maintained with a spanner and screwdriver set. Tthe brakes are Girling based so again readily available. People like Melvyn Rutter and Brands Hatch Morgans hold good stocks of parts and are very helpful. You can fit SSL suspension on the front with chrome king pins as well to improve the handling and reduce long term wear. And maybe a Panhard rod. So there are plenty of small projects to be done if you want to tinker. And a decent example should be relatively inexpensive (15-20k ??).

Downsides are the single circuit braking system - which in theory is less safe than dual circuit. And they are unassisted, so may need a firmer pedal pressure than modern cars. The steering is also unassisted, but its a light car on relatively narrow tyres so not a big problem when parking. The headlamps and lighting in general are not as good as modern cars - but thats just a 1970s thing. It might be hard to get a replacement steering box if you need one.

Tools needed: spanners, socket set, screwdrivers, feeler guage, timing light/gun, multimeter, soldering iron, wiring crimp tool, good set of axle stands, quality jack, nut spinner (for the wheels), inspection lamp would probably be enough to do most things.



I suspect though you knew all of that though !!

I would suggest your friend have a look at the following so that they can see what they are getting into:

Some useful books: (R. M. Clarke Morgan Four Owners Workshop Manual and Buying Portfolio (Paperback))

Trad morgan parts list: https://mogparts.net/userfiles/ckfiles/files/Early-cars.pdf

It would be worth them getting a copy of Allon Whites Buying Guide too: https://allonwhite.co.uk/classic-morgan-car-buyers-guide

My only concerns with regard of keeping a early Morgan such as a x flow, would be they are far more susceptible to corrosion and . wood rot due to the materials and methods used in their manufacture compared to a modern Morgans. So one of my preconditions would be the overall condition and integrity of the vehicle structure. My x flow 4 seater required complete rebuilding within 12 years of being registered ,it suffered from eg rotted inner wings, bulkhead, electrolyse between tub and aluminium wings, wood tub rot, dropping doors, chassis corrosion etc. to mention just a few. Whilst living by the sea didn't help with it's corrosive environment but within 3 years of regular daily use it deteriorated very quickly, whilst remaining mechanically very sound and reliable.

Although I have no experience of others, I agree with the positive comments about the Xflow 4/4

Apart from 'engine out' stuff (core plug replace and 5sp gearbox transplant), all the work I've done has been completed outside on my front drive.

I've got a bit of welding to sort on the rear cross member, and some rot on the front wing which needs a fix, but again, all do-able on the drive.

Much like the MGB, it's a car for the car/mechanical enthusiast. If you are just in it for the driving experience I would suggest a later model may be better.

Yup, I'm with Paul on this too. I miss my '76, despite the current '93 Zetec being a great car.

John`s thinking on age related issues with chassis, frame and general bodywork of Morgan 4/4`s in the Ford cross-flow era are no doubt well considered, thus as ever condition, condition and condition are the 3 most important primary issues, and considerably more so than mechanical issues when chassis or wood rot may present far more of an issue, though much depends upon the skills available to resolve any such issues...

I am more than grateful that my 86 +8 runs on carbs as opposed to later fuelling systems and the electrics are for the most part pretty straight forward, more so when I read that just to cancel a warning light on a dash required the replacement of an ECU, or that non operational brake lights was other than a first time fix at a Morgan dealership... But then my chosen forum I.D. perhaps provides a hint of my bias.. ? (-:

An earlier Plus 8 on carbs would also be easy to maintain.

Mine is injection and Environmental nonsense but I maintain it myself, the Rover engine and gearboxes are always available.

Not a carb model but this represents good value and easy to maintain imho with the best option of 3.9 plus the R380 box.

Me biased

And off course the earlier Morgans potentially much cheaper maintain and repair if/when things go wrong Richard...

I have a friend who occasionally carries out repairs to roller door systems both private and commercial, he is also custom/classic car restorer/customiser. He told me that he visited a large unit to repair a door system and was surprised to find a considerable amount of modern high end vehicles parked out in the back of the premises... Range Rovers Volvo`s and the like, and asking the guys as to why so many nearly new cars parked out there, the answer was that they all had digital issues that the main dealers had shipped to this company to repair, and even more surprising was that apparently it was not only the various local dealerships sending their car to them but some from hundreds of miles distant... !!!!

Nice little earner they have created there George, shows how out of their depth these techs at Main Dealers are having not received the right level of training..