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My Lucas C40 dynamo is faulty so I am looking to replace. Before I replace/refurbish like for like has anybody fitted the Dynalite units? These are supposed to provide the benefits of a modern alternator, whilst retaining the original appearance of a dynamo albeit at a price.
Last edited by GrumpyPa; 03/07/25 07:25 PM.
1956 Plus 4 4 seater
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Yes, I have installed the Dynalite. Easy install using a dummy regulator so all looks original, works so much better than the C40 and is significantly less weight too.
Bruce 1964 4/4 Series V Comp (Megan) 1994 +8 (Maurice) 2013 M3W (Olga)
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If fitting the Dynalite just be aware it's extra output current doesn't exceed that of the ammeter. Some remove it altogether when fitting an alternator and wisely fit a battery voltmeter instead.
Richard
2018 Roadster 3.7 1966 Land Rover S2a 88 2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450 1945 Guzzi Airone
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Thanks for the reminder Richard. I think I will be staying with a dynamo and control box as the price of a Dynalite unit is significantly greaterand difficult to justify for my Mog. Still going through the testing stage to identify where the problem lies and getting confused in the process  When the dynamo is disconnected from the wring loom and the armature and field terminals connected the test says I should get 14v at those terminal but I get 20v even though I have checked the revs at 1000rpm. However when it's all connected up I only get 12.5v. The problem may be in the control box but I haven't as yet found it. I have, however, found a link to an original Lucas Generator and Control Box Tests Manual here, thanks to the Morris Minor Owners Club. Checking continues 
Last edited by GrumpyPa; 04/07/25 03:51 PM.
1956 Plus 4 4 seater
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That was my thinking with my near 60 year old Land Rover. It's not used much at night time and in rain I have the option of using only one windscreen wiper. So far just needed a new regulator with pattern ones available cheaply enough.
Note you will always get a higher voltage from dynamo with it disconnected from regulator - that's why it's there. The 12.5 volts you are measuring are battery volts with dynamo making no contribution at all. If dynamo windings are intact and brushes ok try a new regulator.
Richard
2018 Roadster 3.7 1966 Land Rover S2a 88 2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450 1945 Guzzi Airone
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Good point about the ammeter/battery condition indicator.
A lot depends on what you are using the car for.
In my experience, Dynalites don't stand up to competition conditions.
For a touring car, will probably be ok.
On my Plus 4's I've gone for a modern compact Nippin Denso alternator, something relatively small to get a bit of clearance between it and the exhaust manifold.
Arwyn
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I'm making progress  Removed the dynamo, cleaned the commutator and checked the brushes, then refitted it. Ran the engine and checked voltages, they were OK but still not charging. Connected F to D on the control box, that bypasses the regulator. Then the dynamo produced the expected voltages and charging current. Couldn't sort the Control Box so bit the bullet and ordered a new one. Found some helpful articles on the Morris Minor Owners Club forum.
1956 Plus 4 4 seater
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Just barreling along Talk Morgan Guru
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Sometimes you can clean up the solenoid contacts inside the regulator box, but you have to be very careful not to leave any contaminants on the surface
Jon M
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Thanks Jon, I did try that without much success. Difficult to do properly in situ, also difficult to set up with a digital meter. I'll have a proper go when I have replaced it and aquired a decent analogue meter. There's an interesting article here REPAIRING_THE_STANDARD_RB106. In particular the addition of a diode to reduce the regulator contact arcing and burning is an interesting mod.
1956 Plus 4 4 seater
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Yes cleaning the dynamo regulator is about as successful as trying to do the same with the wiper motor park switch! Takes me back to my 64 Mini or should I say Austin 7!
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