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Joined: Jan 2023
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S
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S
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Firstly being able to turn the rebound springs by hand at static load is frankly rubbish. As far as I'm aware this all came about when suspension systems were being messed with and to make the older steering as light as possible rebound springs were being shortened to suit the car and reduce steering friction, the guide then was.... should be able to turn it by hand at static load! This is not applicable now to the later steering systems with no damper blades and bearings. If you see a suspension system hung up and the hub carrier sitting clear of the rebound spring the issue will lie with either: worn pins/bushes, lack of lubricant or overly weak main springs, Possibly a shortened rebound spring if you let a muppet loose with his grinder!
Lack of correct lubrication within the hub is a very real problem as firstly the hub will fail to slide effectively on the pin. any ingested grit will not be effectively expelled as the suspension will not be able to expel a small amount of grease on the larger thumps to the suspension. This is why Morgan have always recommended what seems to be an over regular greasing regime, It can't need that much grease but it needs the pressure from within to maintain longevity by cleaning the inter bearing face.! In normal use the suspension will frequently find the hub lifting clear of the rebound spring.... it's meant to work like that and the rebound springs function is to damp the hubs return as the main spring pushes the hub back down. These springs are matched pairs... well should be anyway and are designed to work in harmony as a unit. This system was introduced way before shock absorbers were invented. Read H.F.S.'s explanations and then Peter Morgans story of why he installed front shocks!

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J
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Sewin, thanks for that very interesting, I've found that driving through heavy rain and spray for lengthy periods (probabily a rare occurence for many Morgan owners) can wash the grease away completely, so it pays to check the lubrication accordingly. I found I could usually tell the the lubrication was drying out, in my experience the steering weight increased.

Last edited by JohnHarris; 07/09/26 12:07 PM.

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Spot on John re the grease emulsification in heavy spray. That's why the red sticky grease became very popular as the all weather users found it kept seal at the outer edges of the bronze bushings. I have used it but went back to Castrol molybdenum the,grey stuff. as I noticed the red held grit at those edges.
Apart from the in use grease top ups I fully flush the old grease at the end of the season. However the longer the hub/pin fitment stay fitted I have found you do get retained grease in the hub cavity and you do end up with a sort of cannel which the new grease travels through leaving old grease in place. You will know when this happens as grease applied at the nipples will exit immediately and the top nipple will produce little effect. A hub strip down, clean and inspection is the way to go and this is one of the main problems for his hanging up on the pin.

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CBY,
I had new hardened chrome kingpins installed at the same time as the SSL suspension upgrade. No noticeable change in steering effort.
Richard

Joined: Dec 2011
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C
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C
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Sewin,
"Firstly being able to turn the rebound springs by hand at static load is frankly rubbish"

You are right for the standard Morgan configuration. But with the SSL system you have to adjust the spring compression in order to get it, and it is very easy.

The standard configuration adds the rates of the upper and lower springs, increasing the stiffness for short suspension stroke and after decreasing the stiffness on long stroke... a reverse way of what is needed. The SSL system provides the logical way.

Last edited by CBY; 07/09/26 03:17 PM.

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2005 PLUS 4
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