Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Body Mounting Bolts

Hello all -

I recently purchased a 2013 that is quite lovely, but has an impressive amount of rattles, creaks, and pops. I've slowly been tracking them down myself, but one of the most jarring is the sound of the body mounts (outboard below the gauge panel) that make a loud crack sound over every bump. I don't believe there is any damage (yet), but it feels like if I continue driving as-is that I risk creating more issues. All of the noises seem to be coming from the forward half.

I've located the body mount bolts located near the driver/passenger knees and at the end of the footwell. All of them feel quite loose. Additionally, there appears to be a stud with two nuts on each side (again, near the knees) which are also loose. I'm hoping that tightening all of these will quiet some of the noise, but I'm unsure of any special procedure or spec for these.

My trouble is that I can't locate any of these in the Parts Book to know whether the hardware is correct, and I haven't seen much discussion on the topic here. I've seen a few posts saying to "tighten" these but I'm not entirely sure how to complete that task. It sounds so simple! Searching here and elsewhere online has been unproductive.

I'm left with a few questions:

1) Is there a particular order that these should be done in?
2) is there a torque spec? The mounting bolts (with the hex head) appear to have a rubber washer, so "tight" is a bit confusing.
3) The outboard studs seem to spin without tightening. Are the double nuts intended to be lock nuts? How exactly do these mount?

Cheers for any assistance you can offer!

If its a 2013 then do you have a bolt at end of each footwell and a bolt/screw to the side of the knee?

Later cars had additional fasteners.

FYI - There is also a bolt that is directly below the boot lid Dzus fastener - this is on the underside of the body going thru a chassis tab then thru the wooden body frame to clamp the body to chassis. (always interesting to find no chassis tab - especially on m3w's that have had a chassis change due to nothing fitting quite right)

The knee 'fasteners' can either be the a course threaded stud to screw into the body with a threaded section to accept the double nut (?) to clamp the body to the scuttle chassis tab or much more common is a countersunk wood screw (various sizes) with a washer.....If its spinning then basically the wood frame has 'stripped'.

The torque setting....tight is it.

And your correct they won't always tighten after 13 years...hence the wood screw (s).

For Rattles I would check:
The fuse box cover - put a rubber strip/foam pad under the returned edge on bottom and sides.

Bonnet front corner both sides (the front cowl part) - put a self adhesive pad on the body where the rubber plug is (if fitted/still there).

And don't forget to check the chassis for cracks as this will also create rattles and creaks.