Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) What Did You Do To Your Morgan Today?

I had the same on a tour of Ireland in my dads old 79 4/4 a bike brake cable will do the same job if needed..

Re the rubber treads on running boards. How easy is it to remove the rubber strips to then remove the corrosion on bolt heads, rather than remove all the fixings.

Following many tips have been using spray lubricant in lots of places, and found that the spare wheel carrier was fixed to a metal plate which was loose at the top and so could rattle even with the wheel attached. 2 pieces of rubber cable cover sorted that. Also the air intake sits on a metal plate with enough of a gap to rattle. Again some rubber pushed in between makes a difference. Side screens now do not rattle following adjustment by bending the front bracket slightly.

Am using pipe insulation to sit between the two parts of frame of the mohair easy up hood that rub together when stowed causing wear over time. One small section at each side. Easy to keep handy when the roof is raised.

My wife was bothered by the fact that, on our 4/4 , the ends of the soft top flutter whenever we drive with the soft top down (i.e. all the time).

Following a tip here on TM, I screwed Tenax fastener in place to secure the front sections of the hood to the two wooden slats of the hood frame:

- First time, I did it on the wrong side of the strip.

- The second time, I measured the distance very precisely to the fastening straps of the soft top on the frame.

Of course, only on one side. And of course, Morgan chose completely different distances on the other side.

So there were even more holes in the covering of the wooden strips.


What’s more, the corners of the soft top were now lashed very tightly to the frame.

As the hood shows some small cuts in recent years (at the edges), I took it down and had these areas reinforced by the upholsterer.
Whilst he was at it, he reupholstered both wooden slats with fabric.
By doubling up the these repaired areas, the edges no longer flapped about!

However, my wife thought it looked rather unsightly when the corners of the soft top were sticking up…

As I sell motorbike parts, I had some retaining straps from my CX500 seat covers in stock:

- I cut two short straps to size.

- Attached the straps to the frame using Chicago screws.

- Attached one Tenax fastener to each strap as a counterpart for the hoods Tenax fastener.

Result!

Must try that on mine! Great idea

It's potentially doable but you will need a tiny grinder (eg Dremel) and a steady hand, BUT as that will expose crappy mild steel, the de-rusted ends will corrode again very fast as moisture sits in the alloy channel under the rubbers even when lashed in waxoil, probably faster to just swop out for stainless or nylon

Dave W did an article in Miscellany some years ago which featured my pervious Roadster as the source of photos and description, I used stainless M3.5 x 12mm pozi countersunk & oversize washers as I felt they were a bit near the silencers for nylon

Thanks once again!,,

Robin, I'm up in New Lanark w/c 28th if you want some new SS fixings ? send me a pm off group...

Removing the rubber strips is extremely easy, replacing takes a little longer although rubber grease helps. The issue I found was not corrosion on bolt heads but on the actual running boards themselves due to trapped water which eventually penetrates the paint around oversize holes. You have to remove the strips completely after soaking bolt threads with penetrating oil. Only then can you see any incipient corrosion which can be addressed finishing with painting by brush the inside of fixing holes.

It's then a no brainer to replace fixings with stainless including a nylon washer between strips and bodywork. Add silicone grease before replacing rubbers. With a squirt of ACF50 underneath.