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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 41
Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 41
Hi, Ive got a 2016 Roadster and the other day the dreaded yellow engine warning light came on. I plugged in the OBD and it reported multiple errors mainly camshaft Actuator Circuit P0020,P0010,P0023 and O2 sensor heating circuit P0155 P0161 P0141. We changed the upstream o2 sensor on bank 1 but it made no difference . It seems to coincidental that all the sensors would fail at once, so my initial idea would be that this is a wiring fault. Does anybody have any advice / experience . I hate ECU problems!!! Thanks

Joined: Sep 2010
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T
Talk Morgan Expert
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T
Joined: Sep 2010
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Have you tried switching the power off completely? Do you have the little red switch under the bonnet to do so?
Leave power off for a few hours, sometimes minutes ok, the ecu will then reset. I agree with yourself that all those things could not go wrong all at once.
No doubt an expert will be along in due course, good luck!


1969 4/4
1995 plus 8
1996 Plus 4 4seater
2002 Aero S1
2013 M3W
2014 Plus 8
Joined: Nov 2018
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X
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
X
Joined: Nov 2018
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I'm on your side thinking about a wiring problem.

Are there any animals around your garage? If you got so much errors I think the problem must be visible.

I would start looking from the ecu to the engine, also have a look at the connectors.

René


2018 plus4 (sports green)
with a homemade really shiny red tinted dash…
Joined: Jul 2007
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Salty Sea Dog
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Salty Sea Dog
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More likely the ECU has had a hiccough.
I'd go with TaffMog's "fix" first. You may then need a further ECU read after a run out to determine if there are any more recorded errors.
What fuel are you using?


Graham (G4FUJ)

Sold L44FOR 4/4 Giallo Fly
'11 MINI Countryman Cooper D All4
'90 LR 90 SW
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 41
Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
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Posts: 41
Graham thanks for the quick reply. I'm using super unleaded and I do drive it as an everyday car . I feel that one central thing has happened that's giving all the messages. I have check the wiring diagrams yet to see if there are any common feeds/ earths. How do I find TaffMog's Fix first stuff - please could you point me in the right direction / post a web link.. Thanks Dave

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Needs to Get Out More!
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Needs to Get Out More!
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Check connections to each cam timing solenoid on each bank. They are in relatively vulnerable position as shown below coolant header tank on r/h side of engine.

[Linked Image]


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
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Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
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I Haven't actually fully powered it down. I'll try that anyway as a starting point. Thanks for the advice

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Talk Morgan Addict
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Disconnecting the battery or switching off all power and leaving it and putting it back on again will fix nothing that’s an old school fix for early ECU’s with EPROMs. For over 20 years cars ECU’s have used E2PROM’s (difference is they now use Electronically ERASABLE Programable Read Only Memories) tats why you use your code reader to read and then delete the codes.

If it were mine I would read all codes make a note then delete them then leave your code reader on and go to monitor values go for a drive and see if it collects anything strange but I strongly suspect it will read nothing and the light will stay off and then randomly one day it comes back on and you just go through the process of read notes and delete again as the car will be running perfectly.

We had an issue at Volvo Cars with one of the engine types where on start up depending where the crankshaft stopped it was possible for it to kick back a few degrees before the signal was received and install a code that the flywheel sensor signal was missing of course it wasn’t, the car runs perfectly by referencing the camshaft signal took us a long time to find that one!

Good luck but I suspect as Graham said it’s a brain fart in the ECU

Br
Colin


BR Colin
Who used to be a Spanner Juggler
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Salty Sea Dog
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Salty Sea Dog
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Originally Posted by Spanner Juggler
Disconnecting the battery or switching off all power and leaving it and putting it back on again will fix nothing that’s an old school fix for early ECU’s with EPROMs. For over 20 years cars ECU’s have used E2PROM’s (difference is they now use Electronically ERASABLE Programable Read Only Memories) tats why you use your code reader to read and then delete the codes.

Br
Colin

Good point - I'm still on the old stuff grin2


Graham (G4FUJ)

Sold L44FOR 4/4 Giallo Fly
'11 MINI Countryman Cooper D All4
'90 LR 90 SW
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 152
L - Learner Plates On
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L - Learner Plates On
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 152
Originally Posted by Spanner Juggler
Disconnecting the battery or switching off all power and leaving it and putting it back on again will fix nothing that’s an old school fix for early ECU’s with EPROMs. For over 20 years cars ECU’s have used E2PROM’s (difference is they now use Electronically ERASABLE Programable Read Only Memories) tats why you use your code reader to read and then delete the codes.

If it were mine I would read all codes make a note then delete them then leave your code reader on and go to monitor values go for a drive and see if it collects anything strange but I strongly suspect it will read nothing and the light will stay off and then randomly one day it comes back on and you just go through the process of read notes and delete again as the car will be running perfectly.

We had an issue at Volvo Cars with one of the engine types where on start up depending where the crankshaft stopped it was possible for it to kick back a few degrees before the signal was received and install a code that the flywheel sensor signal was missing of course it wasn’t, the car runs perfectly by referencing the camshaft signal took us a long time to find that one!

Good luck but I suspect as Graham said it’s a brain fart in the ECU

Br
Colin


Hi Colin,
It seems to remember a Green Plus 8, isn't it ?
BR

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