meabh, your former solution is certainly more „waterproof“. So my trials are not over. As I said K&N recommends to keep a distance of minimum 10 cm between the air hose air output and the filter to avoid unwanted turbulences. Where your filter was placed in the Plus 4 back at the time it seems there is not so much unwanted under pressure when I recall it rightly than in the area where my filter is placed now, and which I try to compensate by leading the cold and fast air stream towards the filter.
Heinz, I have fitted extended rear bonnet fixings on my Plus8. It does seem to help the hot air escape as the fan does not cut in as often. A while back I did a run with my OBD meter connected to see what the incoming air temperature was. Ambient air was 15decC and incoming air 35degC and still rising slowly. I have not repeated it since putting the extenders on though. The air intake points roughly towards the side louvres but is ineffective as the exhaust manifold is unshielded and below it. I’d like to try your idea but limited room with the big engine so some thought needed. A winter project..... “Modern Engine Tuning” by Graham Bell is a good book and he looks at air flow with actual examples of results from various modifications, filter types, designs etc..
sospan, I am not familiar with the Plus 8 but looking at typical pics in the net it might be basically a good idea if the intake is placed close to the windscreen or at least in that area behind the engine. In case of my open filter it was too loud for my ears. I could have placed the filter also up and in front of the windscreen below the bonnet which I tried also. But if you have a housing for the filter of your Plus 8 the sound level should not be a problem I think. If you want to try such an additional hose, perhaps you can lead it straight downwards where the air intake is located and form an L shape to have a parallel alignment with the driving direction.
What can you do with a cheap plastic flower pot? I have tried to shape the airflow with reduced irritation. As a model I had looked at the newer K&N kits as you can find them in the net. It is of course only a first rough attempt. The engine sounds silkier and now pulls quite effortlessly into the highest rev range. At a constant speed I need less accelerator pedal position. The shown temperature of the MAF sensor is cool even if I had to cut away some cm of the cooling hose because it was too close at the filter. I will cut different flower pot shapes and then use a solid material for the end product. As a side effect the intake sound is a bit more calm which I prefer. Don‘t laugh when looking at this pics, it works.
This video shows clearly that an open air filter without a good airstream guidance must not be an enhancement.
I did the following in my 94 +8 to improve performance and reduce cooling temperature.
Took the original trumpet reversing it fitting a cone K&N air filter (pictured) attaching a hose (pictured) leading down through unused exhaust port in side frame into forward facing rubber air intake with wire mesh guard (pictured). Having just completed 8000 miles in Morgans Over America where we experienced heavy wet weather with up to 3 inches standing water, 2-3 inches of snow and very dusty desert conditions there was no egress of water. The metal canister stops the air filter taking hot engine air in and there was noticeable increase in engine performance especially in the mid range (I do have a Tornado Chip installed). When in the Mojave Desert with ambient temperatures of 115F the engine ran nicely at around 100 degrees on the temp gauge, a considerable improvement.
Overall very pleased with the home made upgrade and certainly works for this touring Moggy.
Bruce
Bruce 1964 4/4 Series V Comp (Megan) 1994 +8 (Maurice) 2013 M3W (Olga)
Luddite, to cool the engine compartment in general, there were two different hints here in the forum. On the one hand there is a very detailed thread which I have to find again. This thread dealt with the test results of an American Morgan driver. He had his car in the wind tunnel of a truck factory in the northwest of the USA. I mean it was Freightliner. The whole thing was in the 90s if I remember correctly. It was about the topic that the the engine went much too hot. At first the driver thought that a bigger radiator would solve the problem. But the guys from Frightliner had realized that the original Plus 8 radiator was big enough. The solution was elsewhere. The Morgan has typically no base plate in the front area between the radiator and the oil pan. They installed a base plate. In this way much more air flowed through the radiator and the engine got good cool water.
The other point is that with Trad Morgan not enough hot air can escape from the engine compartment in hot weather. This is especially true of the Plus 8 with its large engine in a confined space. For this reason there are these hood spacer which you can buy and which are used at the bottom of the rear end of the bonnets, i.e. in the area of the doors. I didn't try this on the 4/4 because it's not necessary. But with a plus 8 this can have noticeable effects.
If you look at the new Plus six, there they have created a very large opening in the form of a long vertical Louvre in the same way at the end of the hoods shortly before the doors so that the hot air can escape. Your idea to "suck off" hot air using the carburettors is very inventive. I don't know but maybe it worked well.
That is an article written by Dwight Smith of Portland, Oregon. I know Him. Suggest You read this again on GOMOG. Not sure Heinz has got it right. Based on the article I hung a rubber curtain below the radiator covering the front of the cross head. Supposedly this lowers the air pressure in the engine compartment and forces more cool air thru the radiator.
Button...the air dam rubber you talk about is a recognised method to encourage better airflow through the rad. To aid engine cooling. On my old car, a 1993 4/4, the air intake to the filter was via a pipe connected to the inner wing to suck in air from the wheel arch. There was a hole with a flange there to fit the pipe.Hence cool air not heated by the under bonnet temperature was supplied to the filter....as per the designs above. The ideal intake for filter air is from outside the engine bay and piped to the filter. Finding a decent location and routing without too many flow restricting bends or major intake surgery is the key. A straight feed from above the radiator is not easy as the gaps are small so a custom intake trumpet/duct is needed. But....how would bleeding air from in front of the rad affect the cooling and lead to hotter coolant? Each engine type will create its own requirements. The Plus8 fills the engine bay quite well and in a right hand drive car the steering column, brake servo, adds to the congestion. There is more room on the other side of the engine but the air intake system is designed to face the congested side. It could be reversed with some work but not that easy. I might just try a couple of tests with some pipes as per Heinz.
That is an article written by Dwight Smith of Portland, Oregon. I know Him. Suggest You read this again on GOMOG. Not sure Heinz has got it right. Based on the article I hung a rubber curtain below the radiator covering the front of the cross head. Supposedly this lowers the air pressure in the engine compartment and forces more cool air thru the radiator.
I would like to note that this thread now deals with two different topics. Since both have to do with cooling, it could be confused. We had such a similar situation some time ago, but no matter, the best thing is the fun.
Topic no. 1, it's about transporting cool intake air to the air filter, e.g. with the help of a hose or by a different placement of the air filter. That's why I started the thread and that's what e.g. Bruce's very interesting solution for his Plus 8 refers to.
Topic no. 2, it is about a better efficiency of the radiator, so that colder water flows through the engine block. There are also posts on how to improve the airflow through the water cooler. This includes what Button writes and what you can read at Gomog.
Of course there can be interdependencies if e.g. the air situation in the engine compartment changes in favour of a better flow through the radiator and if this also affects an air filter inlet in the engine compartment.
My 2014 GDi engined plus 4 just had the air intake hose just druped over the radiator facing the cowl siide,not condusive to good air flow,so I made up a air scoop out of copper,then covered the air pipe with reflective foil,it certainly accelerates better and smoother,but not tried it much above 70,radiator seams to run cooler too
duncan series 1 climax, TR +4, plus 4 GDI SSL F&R suspension
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