Update (includes make and model of fuel pump):
>>CAUTION - DO THIS OUTSIDE AWAY FROM FLAMES OR SPARKS <<<
Note, I do not have a place to store photos so if anyone want photos, send me a request with an email address.
To access the fuel pump's electrical connector for testing:
First remove the fuel lines: push in the small tab at the very edge of one side of the connector with a flat head screw driver, then pull off the fuel line (have a rag under it to catch a dribble of gas). You will want to loosen the fuel filter first to allow the front line to slip away.
Then remove the black plastic cover: This is a two part cover with a small center section partially covering the fuel connectors. This smaller piece is silicone sealed onto the larger cover and is also taped at one end with electrical tape. A small knife will be handy to cut the through the seal (carefully). It's is actually quite easy once you see how it is done.
Remove the black cover and you will see two electrical connectors on the top of the assembly- one is in use for power, the other is not (presumably it is used for the fuel level sender that this fuel assembly usually comes with but is deleted as the M3W has a VDO fuel sender next to the pump assembly).
Testing:
Using a Calterm brand 12 volt light tester, I confirmed there is power at the fuel pump connector for about 4 seconds each time the ignition is turned on. I understand the relay cuts power after that if the CPU does not detect the starter or engine are in operation. So power = good.
Then I used a Micronta 22-188 digital multimeter to test the pump's electrical connector for continuity (AKA: broken wire) No continuity! This means the wiring from the fuel pump housing connector to the fuel pump is either disconnected, shorted, bad or the electric fuel pump itself is bad. The next step is to remove, inspect and replace the fuel pump assembly if there are no loose connections inside.
To remove the fuel pump assembly:
Spin off the round metal ring that holds the fuel pump assembly to the tank. This has stamped on it "BMW 6 762 417" which is a BMW part number just for the metal ring, it is NOT the fuel pump assembly part number (verified this at the BMW dealer).
Once the ring is off, look closely at the edge of the white assembly top, you will see the following three sets of letters/numbers:
WFX 101020
25 169 266
221824/055/010
The first set "WFX 101020" is the part number for the entire assembly and if you search the Internet gets you a Delphi brand fuel pump meant for a Land Rover Discovery. This part looks exactly like our fuel pump assembly but adds a fuel sender float. Cost is about $375
Removal is simple after this: lift the assembly out of the tank, allowing it to drain before complete removal. Some twisting is needed to coax it clear but it is not tricky. Don't let the top rubber seal fall into the tank.
I went a bit further and unsnapped the lower bucket from the entire assembly and removed the actual motor, disconnecting the power and fuel line. Again I tested the motor directly for continuity, it was dead. Interesting to see about a quarter of a teaspoon of aluminum metal shavings in the bottom of the bucket and on the intake screen.
Now to see if my Morgan dealer will be able to get me a replacement under warranty by allowing me to just bring in the dead fuel assmbly.....
