Replying with a (now) professional opinion....
I don't think the old theory about letting paint 'dry' now applies with modern cured paints. Indeed many supercar manufacturers are now applying hand crafted waxes at the end of the production (e.g. Aston Martin and Koenigsegg now use Zymol 100% as an end of line wax, others I'm sure may use Swissvax).
I think the confusion arises from the mixing of the terms 'polish' and 'wax' by the mass produced products. Strictly speaking 'polishing' is the abrasion of the outer surface (i.e the clear coat) to get rid of all the minor imperfections and scratches. The 'wax' then provides a surface protection coating and the long lasting shine. Hence with the best systems polishing and waxing are separate stages not one.
In addition the best waxes have a high degree of UV and rain carried contaminants protection. In very hot and sunny climates unprotected paint will fade quickly particularly on colours like red, white and yellow. The other issues is that most car wash products contain varying degrees of detergent which dissolves the wax. In hot, dust and sunny climates you need to wash and wax the car every few days if you use the normal 'Halfords' range. The effects of salt and acid rain in temperate climates has a similar effect.
So I would apply a good wax system from day one and keep it topped up every three months. Also I would only use the wax manufacturers approved wash to reduce or even negate the effects of the detergent in normal wash products.
As for the film.... try using a bit of Klay bar (detailers are familiar with this) to clean off the surface. Worked a treat on mine. Most of the best systems have a 'quick detail' type wax which will give a nice finish to the film to match the rest. Being softer the film naturally is less 'glossy' after a while than well prepared paint and is more difficult to return to a high sheen. Personally I would leave it off except on the real tough areas like the lower front of an Aero.
All IMHO of course
