Hi There
Nothing different in the fitting procedure with Hardchromes compared to mild or SS pins. The advantage of Hardchrome is the surface finish and anti corrosion as that causes rapid wear of the bushes. The critical thing is the fit and clearance between the phosphor bronze bushes and the kingpins they MUST have 0.001" clearance, get them right and dry the pins will fall through the bushes when fitted to the stub axles by their own weight, dip them in engine oil and they will support their own weight.....that takes some doing and is impossible without an adjustable reamer. A fixed reamer has an inherent design problem, as it wears it cuts an undersized hole so the more sets that are done with a reamer the tighter the pins get. Too tight of course gives stiff steering and does not allow the suspension to work smoothly, some years ago the MMC changed the internal diameter of its OE bushes as their reamers were wearing out....they use fixed reamers and when worn as above they are effectively scrap. With reduced internal diameter bushes pushed into a welded in situ bush tube there is distortion and now there is not enough material to to cut a pair of parallel holes to ensure top to bottom bush alignment. The only bushes I fit are to older internal diameter as alignment correction is then possible (I should say more possible in the case of early 4/4's as they can distort a lot). I would strongly advise you to source all your parts from Peter Mulberry of Mulfab, get Hardchrome pins, spiral grooved bushes of the older internal diameter, new top bolts and grease nipples (the pins come with new lower nylocs). If you get stuck give me a shout and I will talk you through it.
