Originally Posted By Martyn Culling
Originally Posted By SimonH
Do Not remove the slotted screws!!
The drum is not retained by them
the reverse of the threads on the slotted screws is deliberately peened to make sure you cannot remove them. You will destroy the threads in the hub if you get them moving.

Remove the 4 hex 7/16 AF bolts then strike the drum hard on the wheel face with a copper or hide mallet, whilst pulling the drum lip back towards you. This will normally shock any corrosion loose and also jump the drum over any lip caused by the brake shoes. Repeat as necessary pulling on different parts of the circumference of the drum.


Might be the case on a post 93 car, but NOT the case on a 1972 4/4 with steel wheels. As the OPs car is an 86, highly likely the ironmongery is the same, although I've not closely examined a wire wheel car of the same era.

There are definitely NOT four bolts holding the drum on, and if you want to take the axle apart to get at the brakes, you are in for a major and quite unnecessary battle.

OP post a photo of your car, with the wheel off showing the drum in place. There are a few confused folk here.


Martyn, on the steel wheeled cars the drums are located by the spigotting diameters of the wheel studs. Theses are the same PCD/size (nominally 7/8" outside diameter)as the slotted screws on the wire wheel cars.

The rear drums are identical whether on the 4 stud cars or wire wheel and Lockheed (>93) or Girling (<93) and have been since the change to 1 3/4" width. The 5 stud drums locate on the studs, and have a single countersunk retaining screw

I've bolted brand new drums (1 3/4" width) along with matching girling backplates directly onto early +4's with steel wheels without a problem, although for historic racing I prefer to fit a used set that's been through a few heat cycles first.

Simon @ SiFab.co.uk

Simon @ Sifab.co.uk

Sifabtemporary@gmail.com