Road motorcycles regularly from UK to Italy in the 80's and 90's on business and pleasure. Always assumed that helmets were compulsory, and wouldn't have wanted to face the Carabineri (who could be quite officious) without one. Doubt if you would be stopped without one in an M3W though - then again told that all Carabineri have law degrees
Splugen pass was my favourite. Remember return journey to UK one Easter weekend. Brilliant sunshine with generally dry roads and just trickles of melting snow. Then rounding yet another bend near the summit and passing through a tunnel of snow left over from a cleared snowdrift. Very memorable.
