I agree about the lurch/bumping you refer to which is quite disconcerting.
I always used the custom spec Bridgestones on the Skyline GTR33V I had. When I fitted some Michelins and Dunlops at different times on this the car roamed around hunting cambers and hard braking was uncomfortable.
I had the Audi RS6 which was 4WD with 21 inch wheels and 285 wide tyres. It arrived with Continental A0 spec tyres. I go to full lock both ways backing out of my drive and at first it did not do this bumping in a significant manner.
As the tyres got down to 3-4mm it did start to do this very noticeably. As the replacement Pilot SuperSports were put on it did not go away as I had expected. On full lock the contact patch changes shape as well as some differential activity which I was told caused it.
In the end I took it to a place near Oxford called Centre of Gravity. They are experts on wheel and tyre alignment. Not just toe and camber but full race car stuff with adjustable link skills level.
http://www.centregravity.co.uk/services/I learnt a few things. Cars from the factory are not always setup correctly. They found my Audi was totally out of alignment. Dealers do not check this in the PDI. As tyres get thinner they do suffer more from this effect. I cannot remember the cause I am afraid.
On the highly controlled cars with the auto-brake, lane control, laser etc a full geometry change can result in the need for the systems to be reset to enable them and preserve warranty etc. This is not trivial and needs extensive equipment and one of the factory computer thingys.
Most road cars don't offer extensive change opportunities as the links have no adjustment but they can do a few things. If you have something with adjustable suspension (GT model Porsches etc) then they can do a lot.
Once the Audi had been to CoG it was a different car. Massively improved and I would recommend it to anyone who really enjoys the cars response.
The ML63 is now near to replacement tyre stage and I will be doing the same with them on it once the new tyres are in place.
I had not looked at the temperature issue, or how inflation settings might change this on the ML and so will see if I can get anything from these. I imagine the warmer sidewalls will let the tyre flex prior to skipping ?
