For this I did struggle a bit. I used the spring compressors on the main spring, but they are very marginal on grip, so I'm very wary. The two M8 threaded rods need to be about eight inches long. I used extended nuts on the bottom, but it's too tight to use them at the top. Make sure that you fit the bottom plate the right way round. I didn't and it wasted some time. Note that I cable tied the base of the rebound spring to the baseplate, to stop it bidding for freedom.
This shows it on the way up. You can see here that I tried a neoprene washer at the base of the kingpin as a dirt barrier, but the spring pressure distorted it to the extent that I don't think it will do much good. I trimmed off the excess neoprene with a craft knife when the spring was fully home. This part of the job takes some jiggling, as the stub axle must be manipulated to slide up inside the dust cover. It's such a good fit that an upper gaiter isn't really necessary.
You must also manipulate the rebound spring up through the hole in the lower cross tube and swivelling the stub axle gently helps this process. The top bolt should be located at the start of this process but not fully tightened. GoMog notes that this can be cross threaded, so be very careful. The bolt passes through the end of the upper cross tube and it would be very easy to cross thread it. I'm only comfortable if I can tighten by hand. There should be no undue resistance,
Nearly home, and the bottom thread of the kingpin is just emerging.
And now with the correct nuts & bolts in place and the reaction bars and track rod end connected.
Hub & disc replaced. Hub nut was put back to original tippex mark & split pin replaced. Use a new split pin, but get the right size.
