I fitted Phil Bleazeys Bevel Box mount kit last winter and spent quite a lot of time trying to get the drive belt running on the sprockets without pushing hard up against the front and rear sprocket guide plates, the rear wheel pointing straight forward and the belt tension about right. Not an easy task. I found that the BB needed to be positioned about as far to the LH side as you could get to achieve this.
My belt had always tracked fairly well from new as the BB was mounted towards the LH side. When I took it all apart to fit Phils kit I found that the LH swing arm bearing plastic dust cap had been left off at manufacture, there wasn't enough space for it to have fallen off. The BB sprocket was almost touching the swing arm bearing housing. I had to replace the corroded swing arm bearing that had been left open to the elements for several years.
On refitting the BB I aligned the sprockets using a piece of tensioned string across both sprocket faces, not very high tech but it works. Get the rear wheel laser aligned first and pointing squarely at the centre of the front chassis. This was the point where I found the clearance between the BB and the LH swing arm bearing housing was minimal and saw why the plastic dust cap had been left off originally. I stuck some alloy speed tape over to keep the dirt and dust out of the swing arm bearing. If you look at the photo you can see the speed tape, the minimal clearance and the belt not running against the front sprocket guide plate.
You could mount the swing arm off centre as the pivots are adjustable, this could be a possibility if your BB mounting is a standard type and fixed. I mounted the swing arm fairly centrally and offset the BB slightly as Phils kit allowed you to do this.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.tm-img.com/images/2019/08/06/P1240045.md.jpg)