This is a list I did for a 2013 M3W owner that had not used his car for several years and had only a few miles on it. He was thinking of starting to use it again and wanted to know what had happened with M3W's in the last 6 years and what he needed to do to make it safe and reliable. Some of it may apply to the 2012 car you are viewing MOR404. More detail on these things can be found on this forum, I find a Google search works better than the one on TM.

Essentials.

1. Fit chassis bolt in brace behind engine, essential to reduce further chance of chassis cracks. Should be FOC from Morgan.
There is a recall applicable to your car for chassis cracks that you should have done. Info on Talk Morgan and maybe letter to you soon.
2. Fit steering Comfort Kit. From Morgan.
3. Fit the camchest cover vent spacers and dispose of the gasket. If you don’t do this your cambelt will fail.
4. Check Chassis for cracking in upper wishbone aft area and lower wishbone forward area. Known cracking faults, recall.
5. Replace alloy rear wheel drive sprocket with a steel one. From Morgan or Supermax in USA.
6. Check spec of cambelt drive. Crankshaft bolt and idler wheels, kit available from Morgan or Matts Machine shop (cheaper).
7. Replace fuel hose crimped on clips with screw type hose clips (not Jubilee type).
8. Replace the Harley type compensator with a Centa type. From Morgan. This can also be improved with some mods. (Phil Bleazey)
Harley type usually fails within 6000miles and can bend the crankshaft when it does. This is expensive (engine out) but cheaper than a crank.
9. Replace exhaust rubber mounting bobbins with better quality item, they split.
10. Replace rectifier rubber bobbins, see above, same problem.
11. Fit extra earth wire to rectifier case and check correctly grounded, failure blows the rectifier, usually after it has fried the ECU.
12. Fit an extra locknut to the steering wheel quick release to prevent accidental operation or theft of wheel.
13.Thorough check around engine for chaffing pipes and wire loom.
14. Check the leather arm pads attachment screws for security and Loctite them before they fall out.


Those are the essentials, now the desirables:

1. Replace the exhaust system and air filter with a free flowing type (Morgan Stage 1 or Garage 56 usually)
Alternatively drill out some baffles and cut back filter cover, loud but effective. Engine runs MUCH better.
2. Fit Urban Cooling Kit. From Morgan. Includes a better ECU updated flash for improved running.
3. Replace the Banner battery, if you haven’t already, very marginal even when 100%.
4. Replace the standard fuel pump with a better quality Walbro one, lots of failures.
5. Replace Bevel Box gear oil with Redline Shockproof or Millars EP140. Change every 3000 miles, along with engine oil and filter.
6. Seal around the rear bulkhead edges behind the seats with gaffer tape and/or water pipe insulation to keep out dirt.
7. Recalibrate the speedo to eliminate the 6-8% over read error, easy job.
8. Put some anti puncture sealant like OKO in the rear tyre, you really don’t want a rear wheel puncture.
9. Reposition rectifier mount to post 2014 position on chassis rather than engine. Or replace rectifier with more durable HD one.
10. Don’t fit the NVH bevel box noise reduction kit, it doesn’t work.
11. Join the Morgan 3 wheeler Club and check out Talk Morgan occasionally to see what the latest issues with the M3W are.
12. Lots of info here: https://www.mtwc.co.uk/the-5-speeder/ .