Sorry to read that your attempts to resolve the situation have failed so far.... I note that you suspect the male end of the connector set-up is not burned as is the female end...? Strange, though the burning could be a poor connection from the cable it`s self into the connector, which is not impossible though harder to spot given the shrouding...
Did you find power at the cable with the burned connector by using a pin to pierce the insulation..?
If not then it seems the circuit is not being made live.... Much depends on the way the components in the circuit are configured relative to each other in order that the ECU can control the sequence of operation. I have seen an inertia switch mentioned and a roll over switch it seems likely there is a relay involved and most certainly a fuse, it also seems likely there may be an anti theft cut out...
As I suggested, knowing how these items are configured is key to tracing a fault... Starting with the fuse, could be the ignition switch which when switched on and whatever anti theft signal is accepted and approved then provides an output to the safety circuits inertia and roll over which if the switches are closed then may power the coil in the relay, the contacts of which then close to power the fuel pump..
Of course it could well be that this is not the physical wiring layout, the relay coil could be directly energised from an ECU output provided once the anti theft checks have been satisfied, Were that the case then the safety components may be fed via a fuse feeding the relay contacts which when closed provide power to the inertia/roll over switches which if their contacts are closed then power up the pump..
From the above descriptions you may be able to detect that there are a number of ways to achieve the same end, and that is what I was referring to in terms of lack of knowledge of the hardware and software combined configuration..
One of the reasons I declare my Luddite tendencies, I do get frustrated with black boxes taking control, more so when there is no need of that degree of technicality..
Were I you, I would definitely wish to gain a full understanding of the configuration in case of breakdown miles from home, though I suspect you could just run a live/hot wire from a fuse to the pump bypassing everything, to get going..? Of course by-passing safety circuits carries risks..
With a digitally controlled machine I wonder if there is a fault code reader available that you could buy, if so then you should be able to begin to trace issues via fault codes. There are generic code readers available but Morgan being Morgan...????
Hope this ramble does more than just spread confusion...
