Well there's a real lot of information here for you to get you head around RoyBoy. I can really get all of it!
I have in the last year done exactly what you are doing when looking for my new car and went for a low milage Duratec 2010 car which was well loaded with every extra. Believe me, those extra's cost a fortune and really aren't reflected in a used price so stick out for what you want!
The Duratec 2.0 L for the general user is in my opinion the best by far. It has the fuel injection system that keeps the intake valves and ports clean as it washes them on injection whereas the GDI direct injection doesn't and the intake side can soon gum up and cause problems when that happens. The GDI is fly by wire and I don't think the throttle potentiometers are great and this reflects the throttle response throughout the range of position and revs whereas the wire driven throttle body of the Duratec reflect a standard carburetor car and gives smooth response throughout the the range and speed. It drives as you'd want and expect!
The Mazda gearbox! Yes it has a sublime selection but mated to a Morgan the bell housing sticks out the bottom and becomes the lowest part of the car ..... yep! you'll Twa...t it guarantied! as the Morgan is really low to the ground, 4" ground clearance to the Chassis cross member and its below that! Big bill on it's way! The Ford MT 75 can be criticized for the chunky change but remember this, its bomb proof and Ford did fit it to the Cosworth cars and have you heard a Cosworth driver complain! There is an alternative gearbox oil designed to enhance gear changes by Castrol and if you keep the clutch fluid fresh and the remote gearbox selector linkage clean and lubricated you won't go far wrong! The radiator is the plastic end type and not all are crap but do expect to upgrade to a mulfab all alloy option in the future. do this as soon as you have a suspect leak or dribble and you'll not have a catastrophic failure! priced at roughly £500' an easy diy job!
A 2009-2010 I found to be the ultimate Duratec/MT-75 set up. 2009 were the centenary cars and are usually really well spec'd, mine was registered in 2010 but date stamped parts all 2009. Its finish is excellent and the spec is the same!
The selector on the gearbox of the Mazda option is also a fail point and it seems is not available as a spare so a repair would be required although Vitesse fit Mazda upgrades so might be worth seeking their advice here! The Gdi can't really be modified/upgraded whereas the Duratec can and if you ask the sports car world for their advise they would tell you to opt for the Duratec. The Gdi I believe originated from the US market but had a turbo fitted and they called it the worst engine ever fitted to a car! but in all fairness it doesn't seem to suffer with those issues without the turbo. The best variant then must be the later Mazda with VVT and uprated crank and con rods. However this is not your run of the mill option.
In conclusion, when you drive the plus 4 it'll be a totally different experience to what you are used too but you will love it once you get used to the foibles of the car. People describe the dive as supple and only a well set up car that is looked after will produce that, I can now testify to that statement. learn all you can about the car you want, test drive a prepared one from a dealer as this will give you a benchmark as to what they should drive like but don't take any money with you! If you are handy and intend to work on the car yourself I'd suggest you look for a private sale as you will save a lot of money. Most cars have fairly low mileages and suffer the problems of this, like the sliding pins not being correctly greased making the front end overly harsh and crashy and with a variable steering load even overly stiff throughout the steering range. This will also present with alarming steering kick-back at the steering wheel. Rear leaf springs inadequately cleaned and lubricated which makes the back end feel like a wheelbarrow on a cobbled street. You'd be surprised how many times a car could change hands due to these simple fixes not being done and the difference it will make to the drive is unbelievable. Do your checks to the front end and make sure the pins aren't worn and look at the rear springs and suddenly you have a very favorable purchase option! The seller doesn't want or like it and you can sort it in a weekend! When you know what it should drive like you can point out its faults but not its quick fixes and start negotiating! Really, expect to save thousands on dealer prices!
They really are simple cars to work on and will give pleasure in that as well. Don't accept poor bodywork, its aluminum and harder to repair without filler. remember you are buying an expensive fairly deflation proof car so don't get desperate to get the folding out. Play hardball, make your offer and walk away...... expect the phone to ring!
Best of luck, do these things and you will be happy with your car, Don't get desperate it will appear sooner than you think and enjoy your search!
